ULF Photography

MAKING A LENS BOARD

LensBoard001sIf you own a wooden camera, be it a modern model or an old one, you will eventually need a lens board. The first thing most people do is try to find a suitable lens board from a dealer, off the internet or have one custom manufactured. But, did you know it is not that difficult to make your own. And, if you make it yourself you know it will fit!

Most modern wooden lens boards are made of solid hardwood and require three to four pieces of material to construct. Believe me nothing is more frustrating than to go through the process of fitting machining hardwood pieces to have them warp or crack. Also, nothing looks worse than a piece of birch plywood painted black.

So, what to do? I say make your own using plywood. Correct. . . Plywood. It will not warp or crack and is easily obtainable. All you have to do to make it look decent is to veneer the outside with the same wood as your camera and finish it. You will not be able to tell the difference from the solid wood boards.

Take a trip to your local woodworking store, or search on line, for some high-laminate birch plywood in the nearest thickness to the lens board that your camera uses. Hobby shops also sell suitable high-grade plywood. You will also need a few pieces of veneer of the correct type. I cross laminate the veneer and it looks just like the multi-piece hardwood boards. Look on the Internet for tips on wood laminating, it is not that hard to do. Carefully measure an original lens board and using a saw and router duplicate the profile and sand to fit your camera.

The hardest part is drilling the hole for the shutter. Here you will need a Forstner bit that is the closest to the size of the shutter you intend to mount. Remember that most shutters are metric, so choose a drill that is just under the desired size. You can then us a round file and sand paper to adjust the fit.

Once you are satisfied that everything fits, it is time to finish the board. I black the back of my boards along with the light trap offset and edges. I use black India ink which penetrates the wood and dries to a flat, non-reflective finish. Only the veneer front requires a fine finish. I use varnish, you can use spray acrylic if you like. You may have to apply stain to match your camera, experiment on a scrap of veneer first.

It is really easy to make your own high-quality lens boards. The last time I did this I made about six blanks and I still have extra undrilled boards on hand.

JB

Posted by JB Harlin in DIY, How-To, Photography

SUSAN IS ONE OF SEVEN WINNERS

SUSAN PHOTOSusan’s photo ‘Orange Spring Mound’ took one of seven awards in the 2009 TAC Juried Membership Show last evening. She received recognition as a selected example of excellent and admirable art and a $100.00 gift certificate.

We had a really great time talking with new and old friends and a good time seemed to be had by all. The exhibition will be up through August 30, 2009. . . thanks everyone!!!

Posted by JB Harlin in Film, Photography, Presentation

2009 TAC Juried Membership Show

Orange Spring Mound

Susan and I have each had a photograph selected to be included in the upcoming Fort Worth Community Arts Center 2009 TAC Juried Membership Show. We have received notification that Susan’s “Orange Spring Mound” and JB’s “Canyonlands” were chosen as finalists in this annual competi

Canyonlands

Awards will be presented at the Artists Reception August 7, 2009, 6-9pm. The exhibition will run August 7, 2009 through August 30, 2009 at the Fort Worth Community Arts Center, 1300 Gendy Street, Fort Worth, Texas 76107.

We would like to invite everyone to join us for the reception and awards presentation.

JB & Susan

Posted by JB Harlin in Film, Photography

Susan Has New Photos

SNOWSusan has been faithfully printing new negatives for the last three months. She has several new photos from our last trip to Southern Utah now added to her web gallery.

There are also new images from older negatives, both 4×10 and 8×20 that did not work out well on some of the paper we had on hand at the time. Using some vintage Kodak Azo paper and a modified developer formula, she was able to make some brilliant prints from these older photographs from earlier trips. To view Susan’s photo gallery click HERE.

Thanks for looking,

JB & Susan

Posted by JB Harlin in Photography

Dry Mounting Photographs

To dry mount or not. . . that is a question? This debate seems to roll on forever. Sort of like Ford or Chevy? Is there really a correct answer? I have made my choice.
For me there is nothing that comes close to a properly dry mounted photograph. Once I made my choice, all I had to do was learn the process. I worked out a method that gives me what I like, and if you are interested in dry mounting your photos and have never learned the process, I have a little booklet that details my procedure.

 

This is not the only way, it is just my way. . . and. . . if you are interested, it is FREE!!! Take a look HERE for “DRY MOUNTING PHOTOGRAPHS” pdf download.

 

Posted by JB Harlin in DIY, How-To, Photography, Presentation

UTAH DECEMBER 2008

VIEW CAMERAIn a previous post I talked about issues that seem to crop up when shooting sheet film. When I refer to issues, I am talking about things you can do unintentionally that may or may not ruin a particular negative. See my previous post “WHAT CAN GO WRONG?” for a better idea of the issues.

We spent the entire month of December 2008 in Utah. This was one of our typical photo trips and we were there to make photographs. This trip we brought back 276 sheets of film in four formats ranging from 4×10 to 11×14.

Mistakes? Who makes mistakes? Issues? What Issues? Of the film that I exposed, I had 136 sheets in two sizes. Of those sheets, there were three sheets that I ruined, due to just plain dumb mistakes.

At lot of my mistakes come near the end of the day, when I am tired. Lugging 40-50 pounds all day in the snow will wear you down. I do make mistakes. No matter how hard I try, I seem to always screw up a few sheets of film. The biggest one this trip you ask? I double exposed an absolutely great photo of glowing cottonwood trees. I now have this strange 8×10 negative with two large trees. . . at right angles! Yes, the first exposure was a horizontal, the second was vertical. Oh well. I did make several other negatives of the same tree, so not all is lost. And as I said in my previous post, I had a few choice words!

JB

Posted by JB Harlin in Commentary, Photography

THE SINK FINISH

SINKOnce you become a serious darkroom worker you will eventually want a real darkroom sink with running water. The question is, to buy, or to build? Certainly, if you have deep pockets, you can buy a commercial stainless steel sink. You can even have a stainless sink custom fabricated. Just be forewarned, you are looking at a serious amount of money.

What most do is build their own sink, typically from wood. This is my favorite construction technique and allows me to build a very functional sink to any size required. In the previous post titled “NOT THE KITCHEN SINK” we showed what it took to build a large darkroom sink from wood. Robust construction is essential to make sure the sink does not flex. Flexing can cause the finish to crack and begin to leak.

My philosophy of sink building is to build the thing like a boat. Using construction robust enough to sail the ocean. That way it is strong enough to stand up to most anything. Once complete, I like to climb into the sink and jump up and down. If nothing moves, creaks, or breaks, I am satisfied that I have a good strong sink.

Waterproofing is the next order of business. Caulking all seams is a must to insure no leaks. Next comes some form of durable, waterproof coating. I built one sink years ago and used fiberglass. Never again! Way too messy for me, and I hate working with the stuff.

After much research I found a suitable coating for my darkroom sink. Tile-Clad® HS Epoxy is a two-part, commercial-grade, epoxy-polyamide coating from Sherwin-Williams. This epoxy paint is used in power plants, offshore structures, schools, storage tanks, laboratories, hospitals and marine applications. This stuff dries rock hard and is near impervious to most chemicals.
I have found that two generous coats of Tile-Clad® makes a great smooth waterproof finish for a darkroom sink. You can also have the paint tinted to most any color you desire. Most any Sherwin-Williams store should have Tile-Clad® and be able to tint it for you. Be prepared, this material is not cheap. Seven years ago when we built our last sink it was about $110.00 for a gallon of part ‘A’ and part ‘B’ which, when mixed, makes two gallons of paint.

The main points to keep in mind when building a darkroom sink is make it robust in construction, waterproof, and resistant to chemicals. Whatever finish you choose, whether it be fiberglass or Tile-Clad®, if the sink flexes, the finish will crack. Build your sink like your life depends on its integrity and you will never have leaks nor have to build another. . . unless. . . you decide you need a larger one!

For those interested in why we chose this chocolate brown color, the first sink I built was white. Amidol and Pyro left stain spots all over the sink. We chose the closest color to the stains from the color swatches from Sherwin-Williams and had the paint tinted that color. Developer stains do not show!

BUILDING A DARKROOM SINK

JB

Posted by JB Harlin in Darkroom, DIY, How-To, Photography

ILFORD ULF FILM 2009

For the second consecutive year, one of the Harlin photographs has been chosen, along with a quote from the artist, to be included in the annual Ilford ULF film order press release. This year JB’s image titled “Tenaya Lake, 2007” will appear in the annual announcement and call for orders of special size film. Details can be found on the Ilford web site;

http://ilfordphoto.com/pressroom/latest.asp

We are again excited to be included in this year’s Ilford ULF film buy. A PDF, containing a larger version of the photograph, along with this year’s original release is available HERE.

Susan’s image from last year’s press release titled “Alabama Hills, Mt. Whitney” was also featured on display at the Ilford/Harmon booth at the 2008 PDN PHOTO PLUS International Conference and Expo in New York City. Last year’s press release can be found HERE as a PDF also.

Posted by JB Harlin in Photography

YOUR DARKROOM

DARKROOMEveryone that has dabbled with their own film and print processing has been forced to build some sort of minimal darkroom. It is amazing to hear all of the darkroom stories from those that have been there and done that. But the truth is, there are many serious photographers, that have created amazing bodies of work with only the most basic darkrooms.

My first darkroom was in a small closet in a small apartment. I bought a garment rack and my clothes hung behind the bedroom door. A working darkroom does not have to look good. . . it just has to work good. You can load film, expose, and process paper in most any area that can be made lightproof. Once loaded into the tank, film can be processed on the bathroom vanity or kitchen counter. Paper, once processed, can be washed wherever you can set up a washer.DARKROOM

When you start out you may move. No telling how many times you may move before you finally settle in one place. An elaborate and expensive darkroom is nice, but if you relocate, you leave most of it behind. If you rent you have to be creative. I have moved numerous times and the more you move, the better you get at setting up some area as a darkroom.

You don’t need running water, it is nice, but not necessary. You can wash prints in the spare bathroom shower, or tub. One time I had a dry sink made from an old door, with sides screwed to it and painted with enamel paint. I later modified this with a drain, but it ran into a five gallon bucket. This was set up in a spare bedroom, with black plastic over the window. I washed prints in a print washer on the floor of the shower.

You can improvise as required when it comes to the setup. Buy a really good enlarger, with a good lens. The rest is up to you and your budget. A few trays, storage bottles, daylight film tank and chemicals and you are ready to get started. The fact is, you do not need an expensive, nor elaborate, darkroom to make seriously significant prints. Learn to make the most of what is available and put your money and effort into making fine prints. Don’t let the lack of a fully equipped darkroom come between you and your creativity. You can build that dream darkroom later.

JB

Posted by JB Harlin in Commentary, Darkroom, Photography

NOT THE KITCHEN SINK

DARKROOM SINK

In the fall of 2002 we made the reluctant decision that we needed a larger darkroom sink. This sparked a month long project of designing a new 3 1/2×10 1/2 foot sink. The new, larger, sink was to be modeled after the current, smaller, sink. The same basic idea was to be employed. The sink height would be the same. The depth would be greater and it would be as long as the room would allow, about 10.5 feet.

Cabinets for storage would be constructed at each end of the sink with slots for trays in between. There would be space in the right hand end for the water chiller and racks for chemical storage at each end. The backsplash would be a copy of the old one, only larger, and would contain the same plumbing, including filters, two mixing faucets and temperature control unit.

Having determined the necessary measurements it was just a matter of gathering the materials and getting to work. It took about three weeks to complete and install the new sink. Construction was my usual battle ship, massive over kill, design, using plenty of nails, screws, lag bolts, caulk and paint.

For those that are interested in seeing what is involved in building a wooden sink, click HERE to visit our snapshot album chronicling that little undertaking. This is not your typical kitchen sink!

 

Posted by JB Harlin in Darkroom, DIY, Film, How-To, Photography