ULF Photography

THE VIEW OUT MY WINDOW SYNDROME

I have struggled for years to understand the concept of what is visually stimulating. Just exactly what does it take to strike a nerve that leads to the successful completion of an expressive photograph? Specifically, why is it that I cannot easily find something in my immediate environment that I find worthy of photographing? There was a time when I really thought there was something wrong with my perception of my surroundings. Edward Weston said something to the effect that, you should be able to look down at your feet and find something interesting to photograph. Doesn’t always work for me.

The trouble is, I have a difficult time finding anything within my local surroundings that excites me very much. Some of this has to do with the fact that I live on a flat coastal plane at 600 feet above sea level and what I like the most is mountains and snow. I just can’t seem to find barb wire fences to the horizon, hay rolls, or wind mills that interesting.

I used to think this was only a personal mental issue that I alone suffered from, and that I was in some way creatively impaired. I thought that all I needed to do was find some magic somewhere that would allow me to visually connect to what I see every day. There were those times that I was able to find visual stimulation. Such as dense fog, or really interesting clouds, or maybe a rare snow storm. But most of the time I found that I was forcing myself to just get out and that what I created was not something I really cared for. So, why bother?

As I began to associate with other photographers, many living in other areas of the country, what I found was surprising. I met and talked with people that live in some of what I feel are the most visually stimulating places on the earth. To my dismay some of them have no interest whatsoever in even visiting, let alone photographing what I would give near anything to have unlimited access to. I have talked to people that have grown up within a few hours drive of these places and have never visited, let alone ever had even considered to take a look, let alone make a serious photograph of what lay literally in their back yard.

I began to realize that I was not alone when it came to finding inspiration and visual excitement within my immediate environment. I began to think more in terms that this is a normal ‘thing’. . . a ‘syndrome’. . . a ‘phobia’. . . or whatever, that many other suffer from, or in some way deal with, also.

I am a big fan of the late Bill Jay. His writing on photography is classic. I found this excerpt from one of his most popular pieces and it seemed to connect to my thoughts about this perplexing condition;

“. . . in order to photograph with any degree of continuous passion, you must have a fascination for the subject, otherwise you cannot sustain an interest in the act of creation for a long enough period of time in which to make any insightful or original statement about it.” 1

Thank you Bill Jay!

I have now accepted my condition and even dredged up a name for this phenomenon. I call it, “The View Out My Window Syndrome.” There seems to be something about what you have seen every day of your life and how visually exciting that view becomes over your lifetime. At least for some of us, this is some sort of syndrome. The question is, what can you do about it?

I have come to believe that there is little you can do about The View Out My Window Syndrome. . . so you just live with it. Maybe it is more important to accept it and not obsess over something you have little control over. Make it your goal to find and photograph whatever excites you and do not bother with what lay outside your window, especially if it does not excite you!

I started working on this post some time back and have now returned to complete my thoughts. We have had an unusual winter storm here in Texas. We are on the fourth day of cold, ice, and snow. Today we just had another 2-3 inches of new snow. This is the kind of weather we love when we are out in our favorite areas. . . in the mountains or the visually stunning S/W. Yet with all of this nice cold and snow I have little to no interest in dragging a camera out. The back yard is as boring as the back of my hand. I cannot think of any place near by that I would risk driving to that would be visually exciting, even with a gorgeous coating of snow. Maybe if I did get out I could find something, but I really have no inclination to risk being ran over by some idiot driving on ice. When in the mountains or the desert S/W I don’t mind driving 40-50 miles on solid ice to shoot some film. Here, I don’t even want to walk to the mail box. Why? Good question, but this is an example of a bad case of “The View Out My Window Syndrome.”

JB

1 “The Thing Itself; The fundamental principle of photography” First published in Newsletter, Daytona Beach Community College, 1988
http://www.billjayonphotography.com

Posted by JB Harlin in Commentary, Photography

FILM DIAGONAL

Sometimes it is necessary to know the diagonal dimension of a particular film format. This is especially true when trying to determine if a lens has a large enough image circle in order to adequately cover a certain film format. Modern lens manufacturers publish specifications that will tell you the maximum format the lens is designed for. But, with older lenses this information is sometimes not available. If you can determine the image circle of the lens, then you can determine which film sizes will work with the lens.

For example, say you are contemplating buying a lens and you know the image circle is 325mm. Looking at the table below you will immediately see that 325mm is the exact diagonal of a sheet of 8×10 film. This lens would probably work. But, you would have absolutely no movement available when using the camera. This lens would adequately cover 4×10 and would have generous coverage for 5×7 and 4×5 formats.

Here are a few common film sizes and their diagonal dimension;

FILM DIAGONAL

If you need to calculate the film diagonal of any format, here is the formula.

FILM DIAGONAL

A = Film Height
B = Film Width
C = Film Diagonal

Keep in mind that the actual image area is slightly less than the film dimension due to the hold-down guides that keep the film held in place in the holder. This calculated diagonal measurement is plenty close enough to determine adequate image circle of any lens.

Hope you find this information helpful!

JB

Posted by JB Harlin in Film, How-To, Photography

SPOTTING MICROSCOPE

MICROSCOPE

If you are like me, you really hate having to spot prints. You especially do not like spotting negatives. I struggled for years trying to come up with a good way to spot prints. The problem is getting a good look at what you are working on, with enough detail to accurately guide that hair-fine spotting brush to just the right spot. I used a loop. . . tried magnifying glasses. . . used a magnifying viewer for some time, but nothing gave me a really good view of what I was working with.

MICROSCOPE

Somewhere along the way someone suggested using a stereo microscope. What a stroke of genius!

After doing some research it became clear that a high-quality inspection microscope, with magnification in the 8x to 10x range was prefect for spotting both prints and negatives. A good stereo microscope with zoom was exactly what is needed. The ideal setup would have a long boom stand so you can swing the head out over the work area, and for spotting prints you need an illuminator. I was able to find an entire microscope package including a zoom stereo head, eyepieces, long boom stand with heavy base, and illuminator on eBay.

The microscope head that I have has a zoom range of 0.70 to 3.00 x. Using a set of eyepieces that are 10x, I have a zoom range of 7.0 to 30.0 x. This is perfect! Most of the time 7x is fine, but if I have a really tiny pinhole I can zoom in even more. The microscope illuminator is necessary for working with prints, while you will need a light box for working on negatives. This is why you need a good, adjustable, boom with a heavy base.

It takes a little getting used to, but a stereo microscope is the Rolls Royce of spotting magnifiers. Well worth the expense. This type of microscope setup is used in manufacturing quality control to inspect small parts and comes up in the used market frequently. Searching out a good microscope will save you a lot of headaches and make that unpleasant chore of spotting a little more tolerable.

JB

Posted by JB Harlin in Darkroom, Film, How-To, Photography

UTAH 2010-2011 TRIP SNAPSHOT ALBUM

Our 2010-2011 Snapshot Album is up and ready for viewing.  We had another great trip and you can find our album HERE.

Posted by JB Harlin in Photography

UTAH 2010/2011

We have returned to warm Texas after another month long adventure photographing in Utah. This year we spent our time equally between Springdale and Moab. We had varying weather ranging from warm and wet to cold and snow. It was mild in Zion and we experienced a flood. They had a year’s worth of rain in eight days. The park was closed for two days and some areas were evacuated. Water everywhere.

We left Springdale early to get ahead of a winter storm that dumped ten inches of snow in Arches NP and eighteen inches in Canyonlands NP after we arrived. Temperatures changed from mild to a low one morning of -9F and warmed most days to a balmy 15F.

We had a great time. We lost a lot of shooting days to weather, but still made the most of it. Saw truly amazing things and hopefully brought back a few keepers. Now we are working on getting our film notes in order so we can start processing film and we are also working on our snapshot album. Hope to have some snapshots up on the web site soon, so watch here for more information.

Hope everyone had a great Christmas and New Year.

JB & Susan

Posted by JB Harlin in Photography

ONLY ONE MASTERPIECE?

I really like hearing the story of the origin of anything. For all of my life I have heard the term ‘masterpiece’ and always thought it was a modern term as in definition #1, #2, and #3 below.

masterpiece master·piece (mas′tər pēs′) noun

1. a person’s greatest piece of work, as in an art.

2. anything done with masterly skill: a masterpiece of improvisation.

3. a consummate example of skill or excellence of any kind: The chef’s cake was a masterpiece.

4. a piece made by a person aspiring to the rank of master in a guild or other craft organization as a proof of competence.

Dictionary.com Unabridged
Based on the Random House Dictionary, © Random House, Inc. 2010.

In modern times we use the word masterpiece to refer to a creation that has been given critical praise, one that is considered the greatest work of a person’s career or a work of outstanding creativity, skill or workmanship.

But the fascinating origin is covered in definition #4. Originally, the term masterpiece referred to a piece of work produced by an apprentice or journeyman aspiring to become a master craftsman in the old European guild system. His fitness to qualify for guild membership was judged partially by the Masterpiece, and if he was successful, it was retained by the guild. Great care was therefore taken to produce a fine piece in whatever the craft was, whether confectionery, painting, goldsmithing, knife making, or many other trades. The Royal Academy in London is one institution that has acquired a fine collection of “Diploma Works” as a condition of acceptance.

So the question arises, is anyone in the modern world allowed more than one Masterpiece? Depends, I guess, on your interpretation of the definition. An interesting thought for sure.

JB

Posted by JB Harlin in Commentary

FRAMED

We recently had an interesting conversation with a local gallery curator and found that we unanimously agreed on one thing. Most art and all photography should be displayed in the most simple manner possible. Nothing is more distracting, and annoying, than an obnoxious presentation. Large, gaudy, frames with funky colored mats are just plain ugly. Our approach is to keep the presentation simple. The framing and mat should be completely transparent. It should only exist to isolate and protect the photograph. If you notice the frame and mat before you see the image, it is just not right. The KISS Principle (Keep It Simple Stupid) is the only way to display photographic art.

For us, you will not find any of our prints mounted and matted with anything other than pure white, acid free mat board. If we frame for exhibition, we use narrow black aluminum frames. The only other frame we would consider would be narrow natural finish maple. Our first choice for glazing would be glass, with acrylic as the second choice. That is it. Anything else is just plain gaudy and unnecessary.

So, just in case anyone is interested in the materials we use, here is a list;

• Light Impressions Westminster Bright White Buffered 100% Cotton Rag 4-Ply

• Frame Fit Co. Crestline Satin Black 9/32” Aluminum Frame plus Hardware

• Art Guard Glazing Products Plain Clear 2.5mm glass

• Wire & Cable Specialist SoftStrand Picture Hanging Wire #4

Those are the basic materials you will need. It is a good idea for you to learn to mount, mat, and frame your own photos. You should learn to cut your own mats. A Logan Simplex mat cutter is not excessively expensive and will serve you well for cutting simple window mats. The most expensive piece of equipment you need will be a good dry mount press. The Seal 210M is the workhorse of mount presses. Watch the auction sites and buy used, a Seal mount press will last a lifetime. This equipment is not extremely expensive and will pay for itself quickly. You will save a bundle of money and will have 100% control over the display of your art.

For more information, take a look at these articles; “DRY MOUNTING PHOTOGRAPHS” and “ADJUSTING THE DRY MOUNT PRESS” on our web site.

Remember, when it comes to displaying your art. . . simple. . . consistent. . . non-intrusive. . . is the look you want. If you are going to get framed, be sure to think simple!

JB

Posted by JB Harlin in Commentary, Photography

YET ANOTHER CAMERA PROJECT

As much as I try to not talk continually about the gear, it seems that I always end up talking shop anyway. So, here I go again talking about another project. Having built two vertical pano cameras for Susan I promised myself no more camera building. Well, I do not seem to listen to myself all that well. I have this thing about big negatives. I have chosen the 8×10 to be my every day format. But there are times that I envision something just a little larger. In reality, my favorite format is 11×14, but the camera I have been using weighing in at about 24 pounds limits its usability. The idea of a more user friendly 11×14 has been rattling around in my head for some time. I spent a lot of time looking at various camera designs with particular interest in the lighter, more back friendly, cameras.

The nice thing about building your own, is you can pick and choose the features and design that best suits you. This is exactly what I did, and I ended up with a camera that is a conglomeration of designs.

The end result is what I call the Ultra-Light 11×14. Here are the specs;

FORMAT — 11X14
FILM BACK — Horizontal/Vertical
BELLOWS — Max: 36.0” Min: 5.5”
FRONT SWING — Limited by Bellows
FRONT SHIFT — +/- 2.0”
FRONT RISE — +/- 3.0”
FRONT TILT AXIS — Limited by Bellows
FRONT TILT BASE — Forward: 45º Back: 90º
REAR TILT — Forward: Limited by Bellows Rear: 35º
REAR SWING — +/- 10º
GROUND GLASS — Acrylic
WOOD — Cherry
FRAME — Composite & Aluminum
FOLDED — 18” x 19” x 6”
WEIGHT — 13.5 lbs

The most important thing here is the last item, Weight! Once all of the camera was finalized, Susan had to build a pack to haul everything. Took several weeks, but I now have a complete 11×14 packable camera system. The pack carries the camera, three lenses, accessories, three film holders, and weighs in under 45 pounds!

Now it is time to get out and get back to what is important, making photographs. This, I hope, will be my last camera building project.

JB

P.S. Take a look at my previous post titled, “THE VIEW CAMERA IN THE FIELD” November 25th, for another photo of the Ultra-Light 11×14 with pack on its second outing.

Posted by JB Harlin in DIY, Photography

THE VIEW CAMERA IN THE FIELD

This Is How We Work With A View Camera.

Susan Pack o1There is always a lot of discussion on how best to carry LF gear in the field. Seems that most people like to carry their camera in a backpack. That is our favorite mode of transportation in the field for sure. We like the backpack idea so much that Susan builds our packs to custom fit our cameras and accessories. All that we have learned about camera packs has been worked out the hard way. We have copied the features of commercial packs that we find useful and modified as required.Susan Pack 02

It seems that most people plop their pack down on the ground when they get ready to shoot. That is fine, unless you are in mud, water, or knee deep in snow. I have never liked the idea of setting my pack on the ground. And, yes I know, there are those that carry a tarp, but that is way too much trouble for me. I want to find my subject, plop down my tripod and then get to work without having to look for a convenient and safe place to put down the pack. This thinking led to a modification to both the tripod and the pack. Susan added a webbing loop to the top of the pack and I added a hook on the bottom of the tripod crown. This allows us to hang the pack from the tripod, keeping it out of the dirt and making it very accessible.

We both have worked out a system that allows us to carry everything we need and work efficiently in most any situation. The packs we use have a large compartment in the bottom for the camera and a separate top compartment for lenses and accessories. The custom packs also have room for several film holders.

This is how we do it and it has proven to be very efficient. However you choose to work in the field, the most important thing is to have everything you need with you, well protected, and easily within reach.

JB

Posted by JB Harlin in Film, Photography

THE B&W VIEWING FILTER

Susan and I have used a Zone VI B&W viewing filter for years. This nifty little round device not only shows you the relative tonal relationship between different areas of a scene, it also acts as a framing device.

Zone VI 4×5 Viewing Filter

So, what is a B&W viewing filter? In reality it is a Wratten #90 monochromatic filter. The gel version of these filters are available from the usual photographic suppliers. They are a gelatin filter and fragile. Several companies manufacture monochromatic viewing filters. Tiffin has a version for B&W, but we prefer the Zone VI filter. It is rugged, mine is over 15 years old and still going strong. The fragile filter is mounted between glass and encapsulated in a round molded plastic enclosure. The filter comes with a cord so it can hang around your neck ready for use at any time.

So, what does the B&W filter really do? What it does not do is turn a scene to B&W. The filter shows you the approximate tonal relationship between different areas of a scene as recorded by B&W film. It will show you if there are any mergers of tone within a scene. For example, the filter will show you if a building will tonally merge with the sky, thus indicating the use of a filter to darken the sky for separation. It will also give you a good idea of how different colors will look in B&W. I have found that nice little green moss on a tree trunk will merge with the bark and disappear. The viewing filter will show you this with just a glance. Once you get used to using this handy, yet simple little device, you will not want to be without it.

The Zone VI version also serves as a framing device. The 4×5 version has the same proportions as a 4×5 or 8×10 negative. By learning to hold the filter at the correct distance from your eye, you will soon be able to approximate what focal length lens is required on your camera for a specific framing.

One other thing, the filter forces you to close one eye to use. Remember, the camera has only one lens, one view, one perspective. You may be surprised, but try closing one eye while you are looking at a possible photograph. You just may quickly learn that once you remove the 3-D effect of using both eyes, the photo just may not work. Try it!

This is just another tool. It may work for you, maybe not. The only way to really know is to try it. The Zone VI B&W Viewing Filter is no longer manufactured, but you see them used all the time. Check the Internet. This just could become a regular part of your equipment complement.

JB

Posted by JB Harlin in Commentary, Film, Photography