Film Photography
We shoot film. . . doesn’t everyone?
D/FW LF GROUP, PILOT POINT GATHERING. . . ANOTHER HOT MEETING!
Despite the fact that I really detest the heat, especially when it gets into the 80’s, we gathered before sunrise on the square in downtown Pilot Point Saturday. Texas is now into 30 consecutive days of 100+ temperatures, so in order to get out and have some photo fun when it drops all the way to 80 you have to get up early.
We had a good gathering in the summer heat. We all made a hasty retreat by about 8:30 to the local eatery for breakfast and shelter inside where the A/C was cranking. We continued for a couple more hours of shop talk and tall stories.
Michael said, “Fifteen photographers in all, ranging in age from 28 to 82.” We had a great time, met some new LF shooters, a great breakfast, and discussed photography. What else could you ask for?
Next gathering will be Saturday August 20th in East Texas. We will head over to meet Ty Guillory on his ranch in Mineola, Texas to learn about wet plate photography.
Don’t let anyone tell you we are afraid of the Texas heat. . . we don’t like it, but we have to make the best of it.
JB
STOP & FIX WITH STAINING DEVELOPERS
As most know by now, we use staining film developers. To be specific, we use the classic PyroCat HD formula from Sandy King. This developer gives us the type of negative we like. Keep in mind that creating art, no matter what may be your chosen medium, is a very personal thing. What works for me may very well not be at all acceptable to you. My father used to say, “that is why they paint cars different colors.” Personally I do not care for red cars.
All of that said, I have experimented with numerous staining developers and have chosen the one that works best for us. Along my journey of research I have found many opinions and myths that I have found to just not be true. Everyone seems to have an idea of what they believe to be true, but few have actually gone to the trouble to, as Fred Picker would say, TRY IT.
One area of great debate when it comes to staining developers is what stop and fix is appropriate. I find that this is not that great an issue and even John Wimberley agrees. Just in case you have not heard of John Wimberley, he is the father of modern Pyro developers. Even Gordon Hutchings the father of PMK, and author of “The Book of Pyro” was preceded by Wimberley and his first modern formula, WD2H. From an article titled “PyroTechnics Plus: Formulating a New Developer” in Photo Techniques magazine, March/April 2003, Wimberley has the following to say about Stop Bath and Fixer:
“Myths abound concerning the correct stop bath and fix to use with pyro, but it is not a critical issue. Either an acid or plain-water stop bath may be used, and any standard or rapid fixer is acceptable. . . However, avoid hardening fixers. I recommend the manufacturer’s minimum recommended time to avoid the possibility that sodium sulfite in the fixer might weaken the dye mask.”
Wimberley goes on to say that you should follow the manufacturer’s suggestion as to the proper stop for any type of fixer. If you use an alkaline fixer, use a plain water stop, or follow the instructions. He also says Hypo Clearing Agent (HCA) should not be used, since they are mostly sodium sulfite and “the enemy of the dye mask.” He recommends a 10 minute wash time in running water sufficient to complete five changes of water by volume.
If you do much research on this subject, you will find a lot of differing opinions. The thing is, you finally have to draw a line and choose what you intend to do with your processing procedures. So, having said that, here is the way I process film using PyroCat HD.
• Film is processed in open trays by the shuffle method
• Acid stop using 3ml 28% Acetic Acid plus 1,000ml water
• Fix in Kodak Rapid Fixer (no hardener)
• Rinse in running water 2-3 minutes
• Wash in a vertical washer 15-20 minutes
• Bathe in 2 drops wetting agent plus 1,000 ml distilled water
• Hang to dry
This is how I process film using my chosen staining developer. I am sure there are those that will point out all of the reasons this will not work, but I can assure you, it works for me. The most important thing to do is to be consistent. If you do things exactly the same every time, there is a very good probability that you will see consistent results. Fred Picker would say, “different is not the same.”
Remember, the best thing you can do is finalize your procedures and get on with creating your art. The finished print is what is important, how you get there should not get in the way of your creativity.
JB
• Acid stop using 3ml 28% Acetic Acid plus 1,000ml water
• Fix in Kodak Rapid Fixer (no hardener)
• Rinse in running water 2-3 minutes
• Wash in a vertical washer 15-20 minutes
• Bathe in 2 drops wetting agent plus 1,000 ml distilled water
• Hang to dry
EASILY FIND GRADE #2 AND GET YOUR FILM TEST CORRECT
So, here is the predicament; you are getting ready to do your film testing; you have decided to use the simple visual film testing technique. Visual film testing is a really simple way to determine your correct film EI and developing time. All you need to do is perform these tests on a grade #2 paper and you will know you are making the best possible negatives.
>But, there is one nagging little problem. If you are using VC paper, how do you know what filter, or light source setting, that will produce a grade #2 contrast? Even if you are using filters, each filter set has different filters that will give different paper grades on different papers. Even the developer you choose can affect paper contrast. You really need to KNOW how to achieve a true grade #2, using your equipment and darkroom, in order to do a valid film test.
What if I could show you an easy, inexpensive, and quick method that will get you plenty close enough? Well, here you go. . . “FINDING VC PAPER GRADE #2; EYEBALL CALIBRATION.” This method should get you well within range to get you started on the right track.
Remember, that making a good negative is the first step in making a great print. Hope this helps you on your quest for photographic excellence! Download the PDF version from the Articles area of our web site.
“Simplicity is the ultimate sophistication.” -Leonardo da Vinci-
JB
D/FW LF GROUP, RAILROAD GATHERING. . . WE MET, DESPITE THE HEAT!
It is near impossible for me to get motivated in the heat. This Texas summer started early this year and we are in a period of above normal temperatures. The D/FW LF Group made the trek to The Dallas Museum of the American Railroad last Saturday. It was an incredible adventure just to look at all of the rail cars, and I found myself in complete fascination with the steam locomotives, especially the Big Boy.
The trouble was no matter how much I tried, I just could not get past the heat and bring myself to drag out even a 4×5 camera. In fact, I barely mustered the enthusiasm to use my digisnapper. All I can say is I certainly hope we get another opportunity to photograph at the museum. Hopefully by this winter they will have completed their move to their new location and we will try again. Lunch was a high point as usual.
I would like to thank everyone for an interesting day. Thanks Michael for making the arrangements, and Bob for lunch. Thanks to Robert and Mark for braving the heat with their cameras. Hope you guys made some good photographs!
Next outing will be Sat, 07/30/2011 in Pilot Point. This will be an early shoot so we can stay ahead of the oppressive Texas heat, and of course, we will conclude with brunch at the local greasy-spoon on the town square. Hope to see everyone there! In the mean time, keep your film cool!
JB
MEASURING PAPER FOG
I was recently asked to test some Kentmere paper for fogging. A friend had shut down his wet darkroom and had several packages of paper he wanted to sell, but wanted to know if it was still useable. I agreed to test for him and if you wonder how to check for paper fog, here is the process I use.
Begin by cutting off a strip of the paper to be tested in very subdued safelight to total darkness. Since the paper I was testing was 16×20, I cut off a strip across the short side about two inches wide. I then cut the strip in half. This gave me two pieces of paper 2×8 inches. On the back of the paper I mark one with the letter ‘F’ and the other with the letter ‘D’ and place the latter into a light-tight box.
The strip marked ‘F’ is placed into a tray of fresh fixer and agitated for five minutes. Then it is placed in a tray of running water. Next the strip marked ‘D’ is placed into a tray of developer, agitated for two minutes. . . stop for thirty seconds. . . and fixed for five minutes. I use my standard print developing chemicals and the normal times. If you use different materials, use your normal times. Once both strips are in the wash tray, turn on the lights and wash for thirty minutes. Remove the test strips and dry as usual.
What has happened here is I have cleared the test strip marked with the ‘F’ which stands for fixed only and I have developed the strip marked ‘D’ for developer as usual. All that is needed now is to measure the reflected difference. I used an X-Rite 810 densitometer to measure the difference and found it to only be about 0.003, which is nothing to worry about. Keep in mind that all light sensitive materials, film or paper, will have some amount of base fog when developed.
Fortunately I was able to report to my friend that his paper was in excellent condition and he was happy to be able to sell it to another photographer. Hopefully this batch of paper will live on to produce some beautiful prints.
Also keep in mind that you do not need a densitometer to run this test. If you cannot see any appreciable difference in the two test strips, you can assume the paper is in good condition. If you have some old paper that shows signs of fogging, you can experiment with adding a restrainer, like Benzotriazol, to your developer to see if it will help. Never throw out printing paper just because you have had it on the shelf for some time. Test it first. . . you may be surprised to find that it is in good condition and useable.
JB
JB & SUSAN HARLIN UPCOMING EVENTS
Here is our current calendar of upcoming events. More information available by clicking on the item in the ticker above. We invite everyone interested in film photography to join us, though we specialize in LF and ULF, we love all film. Hope to see you at one of our gatherings!
NEW UPDATED & REVISED E-BOOKS AVAILABLE FOR IMMEDIATE DOWNLOAD TO YOUR COMPUTER!
DFW LF GROUP, WET PLATE CAMERAS WITH TY GUILLORY, Saturday, August 20, 2011
On Saturday, August 20 we will head east to meet Ty Guillory on his ranch in Mineola, Texas. Ty is one of only two craftsmen still handcrafting traditional wet plate cameras. Although there will not be time to see him mix the chemicals and prepare the plates, we will see how the camera is used to capture a couple of images and how the plates are then developed and varnished.
Once the demo is done, we will spend time in the workshop learning about the wet plate camera, we will enjoy burgers and hot dogs, and then have an opportunity to photograph on Ty’s 25 acre property. Ty would love some of us to photograph his family on Large Format as this has never been done before. Consider this our contribution to a fun-filled outing.
Ty’s cameras are historically correct, built from plans from the George Eastman House Museum of Photography. Many of us saw the story a few months ago about Ty and his studio on Texas Country Reporter and this should be a very interesting trip.
Mineola is about 2-1/4 hours east of Fort Worth, 1-1/2 hours from Dallas on US 80. We are limited to 12 photographers due to the size of the studio where Ty builds his cameras. Please RSVP by e-mailing Michael directly at: michael@kan.com.
As soon as we reach 12 participants, he will place additional names on a waiting list in case there are any cancellations. Again, RSVP only through e-mail! Directions (and caravan point of departure for those who want to ride in a group) will be e-mailed to you closer to August 20th.
Here are some great videos of photographer Luther Gerlach practicing the art of wet plate photography:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0JuuCDXR6-I
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u-d89SSKedA&feature=player_embedded
This gathering will fill quickly, so be sure to e-mail Michael at the address above to reserve your slot.
For more continuing information and discussion, drop by the Large Format Photography Forum.
Looking forward to another great outing!
JB
DFW LF GROUP, MUSEUM OF THE AMERICAN RAILROAD GATHERING, Saturday, July 02, 2011
Though not exactly posted here in order, the D/FW LF Group, by popular request, has added more summer events. The Dallas Museum of the American Railroad, located in Fair Park, will open their doors a bit early this July 2nd morning to allow our big cameras in for some peaceful photography. Once the doors open at 10, we will still be able to take our time to take photos, but there might be foot traffic between you and your object!
The museum is located at Gate 3 in Fair Park. We can begin entering the premises at 9AM.
A couple of things to consider:
1. Everyone will need to sign a standard waiver stating that the photos will not be used for commercial purposes.
2. There is a $7 admission fee. Since they are opening the doors a bit early and have additional costs involved with this, We am asking you to make an additional contribution to the museum. This can be any amount you feel comfortable with; it is just a friendly gesture of thanks to the museum.
We are planning to have lunch at an old Dallas Deep Ellum restaurant after the shoot, so save your appetite for more good food. Adairs has been around for a long time and has a great rustic(?) ambience.
For more continuing information, drop by the Large Format Photography Forum.
See you on July 2. . . and. . . do not forget we are heading to Pilot Point July 30th.
JB
DFW LF GROUP, PILOT POINT GATHERING, Saturday, July 30, 2011
Here we go again! Our informal LF Photography Group is holding another outing, and even braving the heat of summer in Texas.
Visit historic downtown Pilot Point for some great photo opportunities; both architectural as well as close-up detail of antiques and antique fixtures.
Since it is the midst of summer, we will meet early in the morning – 7:30AM. Color film photographers might want to be there even earlier! Sunrise will be at 6:39! Complete side lighting right down W. Main Street will be at 9:17AM. This might provide for some interesting shadows! There are some wonderful murals to photograph also. Google “Bare Nekkid Ladies in Pilot Point” to read up on the most controversial mural in town! The bank building, just off the square, was used in the movie “Bonnie & Clyde.” Many photographic opportunities are within 2 blocks on each side of the town square.
We will end with brunch at the local greasy-spoon on the town square between 10:30 and 11. This should help us beat the worst summer heat and humidity!
Estimated drive times from:
Ft. Worth: 1 hr, 10 min
Dallas: 1 hr, 15 min.
Carrollton – 55 min.
We invite everyone interested in LF & ULF photography to join us for some serious discussion and fun. Also, if you are a working photographer, please bring a few photos to share with everyone.
For more continuing information, drop by theLarge Format Photography Forum.
Dallas: 1 hr, 15 min.
Carrollton – 55 min.