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“VIEW CAMERA PHOTOGRAPHY BY JB & SUSAN HARLIN”

Hopefully fall is coming and bringing cooler weather and some rain. The Texas summer is just too brutal to get out and do much photography. So, with a little cooler weather finally moving in, it just may be a good time to get out and look at some photographs. Susan and I are having another exhibition of our work that will carry everyone from fall into winter. We will have 28 of our latest Black & White photographs on display including everything from snow, to desert, from 8×10, to 8×20, in living B&W, on display at the Downtown F/W Library.

“VIEW CAMERA PHOTOGRAPHY BY JB & SUSAN HARLIN” will run September 29, 2011 through January 12, 2012 at the Central Library West Wing Gallery, Downtown Fort Worth Library. We will be posting our reception date soon, so check back for the date and time.

Library location and parking information HERE.

JB & Susan

UPDATE:  We have 28 photographs up and ready for viewing.  If you stop by, please drop us a line and let us know what you think.

September 25, 2011 | Categories: Events, Photography | Leave A Comment »

D/FW LFG FIRST FALL OUTING. . . TWO DAYS!

The D/FW LF Group is heading out for an early fall outing next Saturday & Sunday, October 1 & 2, 2011.

SATURDAY, October 1st
We are planning to meet for breakfast at the Original Pancake House at 9AM then head over to the Camera Show at the Grapevine Convention Center that starts at 10AM. Follow this LINK, and print out the page for $1.00 off admission.

SUNDAY, October 2nd
We are heading down toward Granbury to photograph down the Brazos River under the BRIDGE that is on County Rd. 1175. Sunrise is at around 7:20 so there is no need to be there until around 8AM for us B&W shooters!  Before you get to the bridge (from the north) there is a small parking spot on the left.  Once you walk toward the old r-r bridge you will see a path down towards the river. I do recommend some good support for your feet!

Breakfast, a camera show one day, and an outing, and I would bet more food the next!  Hopefully everyone will be able to join us both days!

JB

September 25, 2011 | Categories: D/FW LF GROUP, Events, Photography | Leave A Comment »

WRITING ON THE NEGATIVE EDGE

I was recently asked what type of writing device we use to mark the catalog number on the edge of our film. I had not given it much thought since we have been using the same pens for marking film for many years. I have heard of people using various mechanical pens and India ink. Some say they use a common Sharpie. There are numerous ways to do this, but the easiest and most effective way I have found is to use a pigment liner pen.

Specifically, I have used a Staedtler pigment liner pen for years. They are clean, easy to use, make very dense letters and numbers that easily show up on proofs, and are filled with permanent black ink. The ink used is lightfast and will not fade. One nice thing about the Staedtler pigment liner pen is it will not dry out. The manufacturer says, “The unique cap-off feature of the ink enables pens to be left uncapped for 18 hours without drying up. Even when left open during long breaks in writing, they remain ready for action without delay.” They also last a long time. We have not had to buy new pens in years.

The Staedtler pigment liner pens are available in nine writing widths from 0.05 mm to 0.8 mm. My favorite sizes are the 0.3, 0.5, 0.7 mm widths. I use the smaller diameter pen for small film where the clear edge is very narrow. You still get very legible writing along the film edge that prints well on the proofs. I prefer the larger diameter pen for the really big film. These have worked well for me for over 30 years, and should work well for you also.

Here are a few things I have learned over the years that may help when using these pens to mark your film. I always mark my negatives on base side opposite the emulsion, this way the file number prints correctly on the edge of prints and proofs. Be sure to let the ink dry thoroughly before you place the film into a storage sleeve. It should only take a minute to dry. I have found that if you make a mistake, you can remove the ink using a cotton swab lightly moistened with acetone. And, one more thing; the biggest mistake you can ever make is not using a filing system for your negatives. If you choose to mark your film on the edge, these markers will do the trick.

If you are interested in learning more about Staedtler pigment liner pens, HERE is their web site.

JB

September 4, 2011 | Categories: Film, How-To, Photography | Tags: , , , | Leave A Comment »

D/FW LF GROUP, WET PLATE PHOTOGRAPHY WITH TY GUILLORY

We had another great gathering in East Texas this past Saturday. Twelve dedicated photo enthusiasts braved the heat for a day with Ty Guillory to learn about wet plate photography. Ty gave us a tour of his workshop where he builds period cameras and showed us many of his wet plate photographs. There was a lot of discussion about period lenses, a subject about which Ty can give you plenty of information.

Once we had a good understanding of the cameras we moved outside for a hands on demonstration of the fine art of making tintypes. We were all fascinated with the simplicity and complexity of the process.

After a jam packed morning of photography we were treated to a great picnic lunch prepared by Ty’s wife Tina. After a break to recharge, we braved the 100 plus heat for even more photography.

One fun high point of the day was getting to drool all over the 5×7 camera that Michael purchased. Seems none of us were aware that Michael is now moving into the world of wet plate photography. Ty had even mounted a beautiful period lens that Michael had  purchased

and the two of them took a great risk by making the first photo of yours truly. That lens may never be the same! As the afternoon progressed we moved inside to Ty’s shop and some welcome A/C.

At this point it was discovered that Michael needed a 3/8-16 mount, so Ty proceeded to install a second tripod socket on Michael’s new camera while we all watched. By the time the last few of us really die hard types decided it was time to head home, it was near 4:00.  The thermometer in the van read 110 most of the way home.  What a day!

The D/FW LFG would like to thank Ty and Tina for a very informative and fun day. We all had a great time, despite the heat, and some of us just may have learned something new. Once this heat subsides we will be planning more outings.

JB

August 21, 2011 | Categories: D/FW LF GROUP, Events, Photography | Leave A Comment »

D/FW LF GROUP, SATURDAY, AUGUST 13th, AMON CARTER MUSEUM. . .

Since the heat is on here in North Texas, we have decided to move our next gathering indoors and enjoy photography under air conditioned comfort. “Masterworks of American Photography: Landscape”  begins Saturday, August 13th at the Amon Carter Museum in Fort Worth.

Saturday morning we will meet for breakfast at Lucile’s, 4700 Camp Bowie Boulevard, when they open at 9:00 a.m.  The museum opens at 10:00 a.m. and after coffee, breakfast, and I am sure, much discussion, we will head up the street to the exhibition.  This is an open gathering and we invite everyone to join us for some more photography and fun.

August 7, 2011 | Categories: D/FW LF GROUP, Photography | Leave A Comment »

D/FW LF GROUP, PILOT POINT GATHERING. . . ANOTHER HOT MEETING!

Despite the fact that I really detest the heat, especially when it gets into the 80’s, we gathered before sunrise on the square in downtown Pilot Point Saturday. Texas is now into 30 consecutive days of 100+ temperatures, so in order to get out and have some photo fun when it drops all the way to 80 you have to get up early.

We had a good gathering in the summer heat. We all made a hasty retreat by about 8:30 to the local eatery for breakfast and shelter inside where the A/C was cranking. We continued for a couple more hours of shop talk and tall stories.

Michael said, “Fifteen photographers in all, ranging in age from 28 to 82.” We had a great time, met some new LF shooters, a great breakfast, and discussed photography. What else could you ask for?

Next gathering will be Saturday August 20th in East Texas. We will head over to meet Ty Guillory on his ranch in Mineola, Texas to learn about wet plate photography.

Don’t let anyone tell you we are afraid of the Texas heat. . . we don’t like it, but we have to make the best of it.

JB

July 31, 2011 | Categories: D/FW LF GROUP, Photography | Leave A Comment »

STOP & FIX WITH STAINING DEVELOPERS

As most know by now, we use staining film developers. To be specific, we use the classic PyroCat HD formula from Sandy King. This developer gives us the type of negative we like. Keep in mind that creating art, no matter what may be your chosen medium, is a very personal thing. What works for me may very well not be at all acceptable to you. My father used to say, “that is why they paint cars different colors.” Personally I do not care for red cars.

All of that said, I have experimented with numerous staining developers and have chosen the one that works best for us. Along my journey of research I have found many opinions and myths that I have found to just not be true. Everyone seems to have an idea of what they believe to be true, but few have actually gone to the trouble to, as Fred Picker would say, TRY IT.

One area of great debate when it comes to staining developers is what stop and fix is appropriate. I find that this is not that great an issue and even John Wimberley agrees. Just in case you have not heard of John Wimberley, he is the father of modern Pyro developers. Even Gordon Hutchings the father of PMK, and author of “The Book of Pyro” was preceded by Wimberley and his first modern formula, WD2H. From an article titled “PyroTechnics Plus: Formulating a New Developer” in Photo Techniques magazine, March/April 2003, Wimberley has the following to say about Stop Bath and Fixer:

“Myths abound concerning the correct stop bath and fix to use with pyro, but it is not a critical issue. Either an acid or plain-water stop bath may be used, and any standard or rapid fixer is acceptable. . . However, avoid hardening fixers. I recommend the manufacturer’s minimum recommended time to avoid the possibility that sodium sulfite in the fixer might weaken the dye mask.”

Wimberley goes on to say that you should follow the manufacturer’s suggestion as to the proper stop for any type of fixer. If you use an alkaline fixer, use a plain water stop, or follow the instructions. He also says Hypo Clearing Agent (HCA) should not be used, since they are mostly sodium sulfite and “the enemy of the dye mask.” He recommends a 10 minute wash time in running water sufficient to complete five changes of water by volume.

If you do much research on this subject, you will find a lot of differing opinions. The thing is, you finally have to draw a line and choose what you intend to do with your processing procedures. So, having said that, here is the way I process film using PyroCat HD.

• Film is processed in open trays by the shuffle method
• Acid stop using 3ml 28% Acetic Acid plus 1,000ml water
• Fix in Kodak Rapid Fixer (no hardener)
• Rinse in running water 2-3 minutes
• Wash in a vertical washer 15-20 minutes
• Bathe in 2 drops wetting agent plus 1,000 ml distilled water
• Hang to dry

This is how I process film using my chosen staining developer. I am sure there are those that will point out all of the reasons this will not work, but I can assure you, it works for me. The most important thing to do is to be consistent. If you do things exactly the same every time, there is a very good probability that you will see consistent results. Fred Picker would say, “different is not the same.”

Remember, the best thing you can do is finalize your procedures and get on with creating your art. The finished print is what is important, how you get there should not get in the way of your creativity.

JB

July 28, 2011 | Categories: Darkroom, Film, Formulas, Photography | Tags: , , , | Leave A Comment »

EASILY FIND GRADE #2 AND GET YOUR FILM TEST CORRECT

So, here is the predicament; you are getting ready to do your film testing; you have decided to use the simple visual film testing technique. Visual film testing is a really simple way to determine your correct film EI and developing time. All you need to do is perform these tests on a grade #2 paper and you will know you are making the best possible negatives.

But, there is one nagging little problem. If you are using VC paper, how do you know what filter, or light source setting, that will produce a  grade #2 contrast? Even if you are using filters, each filter set has different filters that will give different paper grades on different papers. Even the developer you choose can affect paper contrast. You really need to KNOW how to achieve a true grade #2, using your equipment and darkroom, in order to do a valid film test.

What if I could show you an easy, inexpensive, and quick method that will get you plenty close enough?   Well, here you go. . . “FINDING VC PAPER GRADE #2; EYEBALL CALIBRATION.”  This method should get you well within range to get you started on the right track.

Remember, that making a good negative is the first step in making a great print. Hope this helps you on your quest for photographic excellence!  Download the PDF version  from the Articles area of our web site.

“Simplicity is the ultimate sophistication.” -Leonardo da Vinci-

JB

July 17, 2011 | Categories: Darkroom, How-To, Photography | Tags: , , , , , | Leave A Comment »

D/FW LF GROUP, RAILROAD GATHERING. . . WE MET, DESPITE THE HEAT!

It is near impossible for me to get motivated in the heat. This Texas summer started early this year and we are in a period of above normal temperatures. The D/FW LF Group made the trek to The Dallas Museum of the American Railroad last Saturday. It was an incredible adventure just to look at all of the rail cars, and I found myself in complete fascination with the steam locomotives, especially the Big Boy.

The trouble was no matter how much I tried, I just could not get past the heat and bring myself to drag out even a 4×5 camera. In fact, I barely mustered the enthusiasm to use my digisnapper. All I can say is I certainly hope we get another opportunity to photograph at the museum. Hopefully by this winter they will have completed their move to their new location and we will try again. Lunch was a high point as usual.

I would like to thank everyone for an interesting day. Thanks Michael for making the arrangements, and Bob for lunch. Thanks to Robert and Mark for braving the heat with their cameras. Hope you guys made some good photographs!

Next outing will be Sat, 07/30/2011 in Pilot Point. This will be an early shoot so we can stay ahead of the oppressive Texas heat, and of course, we will conclude with brunch at the local greasy-spoon on the town square. Hope to see everyone there! In the mean time, keep your film cool!

JB

July 6, 2011 | Categories: D/FW LF GROUP, Events, Photography | Leave A Comment »

MEASURING PAPER FOG

I was recently asked to test some Kentmere paper for fogging. A friend had shut down his wet darkroom and had several packages of paper he wanted to sell, but wanted to know if it was still useable. I agreed to test for him and if you wonder how to check for paper fog, here is the process I use.

Begin by cutting off a strip of the paper to be tested in very subdued safelight to total darkness. Since the paper I was testing was 16×20, I cut off a strip across the short side about two inches wide. I then cut the strip in half. This gave me two pieces of paper 2×8 inches. On the back of the paper I mark one with the letter ‘F’ and the other with the letter ‘D’ and place the latter into a light-tight box.

The strip marked ‘F’ is placed into a tray of fresh fixer and agitated for five minutes. Then it is placed in a tray of running water. Next the strip marked ‘D’ is placed into a tray of developer, agitated for two minutes. . . stop for thirty seconds. . . and fixed for five minutes. I use my standard print developing chemicals and the normal times. If you use different materials, use your normal times. Once both strips are in the wash tray, turn on the lights and wash for thirty minutes. Remove the test strips and dry as usual.

What has happened here is I have cleared the test strip marked with the ‘F’ which stands for fixed only and I have developed the strip marked ‘D’ for developer as usual. All that is needed now is to measure the reflected difference. I used an X-Rite 810 densitometer to measure the difference and found it to only be about 0.003, which is nothing to worry about. Keep in mind that all light sensitive materials, film or paper, will have some amount of base fog when developed.

Fortunately I was able to report to my friend that his paper was in excellent condition and he was happy to be able to sell it to another photographer. Hopefully this batch of paper will live on to produce some beautiful prints.

Also keep in mind that you do not need a densitometer to run this test. If you cannot see any appreciable difference in the two test strips, you can assume the paper is in good condition. If you have some old paper that shows signs of fogging, you can experiment with adding a restrainer, like Benzotriazol, to your developer to see if it will help. Never throw out printing paper just because you have had it on the shelf for some time. Test it first. . . you may be surprised to find that it is in good condition and useable.

JB

June 7, 2011 | Categories: Darkroom, How-To, Photography | Tags: , , , , , | Leave A Comment »

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