Photography

DFW LF GROUP, MUSEUM OF THE AMERICAN RAILROAD GATHERING, Saturday, July 02, 2011

Though not exactly posted here in order, the D/FW LF Group, by popular request, has added more summer events. The Dallas Museum of the American Railroad, located in Fair Park, will open their doors a bit early this July 2nd morning to allow our big cameras in for some peaceful photography. Once the doors open at 10, we will still be able to take our time to take photos, but there might be foot traffic between you and your object!

The museum is located at Gate 3 in Fair Park. We can begin entering the premises at 9AM.

A couple of things to consider:

1. Everyone will need to sign a standard waiver stating that the photos will not be used for commercial purposes.

2. There is a $7 admission fee. Since they are opening the doors a bit early and have additional costs involved with this, We am asking you to make an additional contribution to the museum. This can be any amount you feel comfortable with; it is just a friendly gesture of thanks to the museum.

We are planning to have lunch at an old Dallas Deep Ellum restaurant after the shoot, so save your appetite for more good food. Adairs has been around for a long time and has a great rustic(?) ambience.

For more continuing information, drop by the Large Format Photography Forum.

See you on July 2. . . and. . . do not forget we are heading to Pilot Point July 30th.

JB


DFW LF GROUP, PILOT POINT GATHERING, Saturday, July 30, 2011

Here we go again! Our informal LF Photography Group is holding another outing, and even braving the heat of summer in Texas.

Visit historic downtown Pilot Point for some great photo opportunities; both architectural as well as close-up detail of antiques and antique fixtures.

Since it is the midst of summer, we will meet early in the morning – 7:30AM.  Color film photographers might want to be there even earlier! Sunrise will be at 6:39! Complete side lighting right down W. Main Street will be at 9:17AM. This might provide for some interesting shadows! There are some wonderful murals to photograph also. Google “Bare Nekkid Ladies in Pilot Point” to read up on the most controversial mural in town! The bank building, just off the square, was used in the movie “Bonnie & Clyde.” Many photographic opportunities are within 2 blocks on each side of the town square.

We will end with brunch at the local greasy-spoon on the town square between 10:30 and 11. This should help us beat the worst summer heat and humidity!

Estimated drive times from:

Ft. Worth: 1 hr, 10 min
Dallas: 1 hr, 15 min.
Carrollton – 55 min.

We invite everyone interested in LF & ULF photography to join us for some serious discussion and fun. Also, if you are a working photographer, please bring a few photos to share with everyone.

For more continuing information, drop by theLarge Format Photography Forum.

Hope to see you July 30th in Pilot Point!

JB & Susan


D/FW LF GROUP & TCC GATHERING. . . A GREAT TIME!

What a great time we had Saturday with the D/FW LF Group & Tarrant County College, Exposure Photo Club gathering at the TCC N/E Campus. We had about 25 enthusiastic participants, ranging from beginners to somewhat seasoned photographer-types in attendance, and everyone had a great time sharing stories, showing off their equipment, and photographs. The weather cooperated, it was dry, cloudy, and the temperature was pleasant.

We packed up our outing on the campus grounds after a lot of looking, touching, and photographic talk, then continued with more discussion over BBQ at North Main BBQ in Euless. The truth of the matter is, for those that are interested, you just can’t get enough photography!  And, there is a rumor that the D/FW LF Group is planning more outings for the rest of this year and into next year.

Stay tuned here for more announcements and to keep up with the local happenings. Our goal is to promote film photography, in any and all formats. . . though our main focus is LF and ULF, if you shoot film of any size, or if you are interested in film, please join us to learn more.  Everyone is welcome.  Our goal is to promote photography, in any and all forms, and to dispelled the myth that film is dead.

We would like to thank all of those involved in the planning of this event and an even bigger THANK YOU to those that attended. We are looking forward to seeing everyone again soon.

JB & Susan


D/FW LF GROUP, VIEW CAMERAS & BBQ

We continue with preparations for the upcoming DFW LF GROUP, TCC GATHERING, Saturday, May 21, 2011. We are hoping for a good group to show up to see, touch and experience the LF & ULF camera. this is a no excuses, dedicated to film and the view camera gathering and we hope to promote film and the art of photography.

We will be gathering at the Tarrant County College N/E Campus at 8:00am. For more information, see my previous post, “DFW LF GROUP, TCC GATHERING, Saturday, May 21, 2011.” We plan on adjourning our field trip about noon or so and continue our outing over lunch. Not only will we be talking large cameras and film, but we will be heading for a little BBQ. We invite everyone to join us for what should be a lively lunch and discussion. We will be going to a local landmark restaurant, North Main BBQ in Euless. Here is an excerpt from their web site;

. . . “Home of the World’s Best Ribs” is backed with 30 years of barbeque experience. North Main BBQ serves the “World’s Best Ribs”. . .

North Main BBQ is located about three (3) miles west of the Dallas-Fort Worth Airport off Hwy 183.

North Main BBQ serves an “All you can Eat” lunch and dinner buffet that includes its award winning ribs, chopped and sliced beef brisket, chicken breast, pork shoulder, sausage, ranch beans, potato salad, cole slaw, assorted relishes and bbq sauce. All meats are slow cooked with hickory smoke from four to twelve hours.

More information on North Main BBQ HERE.

This just couldn’t be any better. . . View Cameras and BBQ. Join us for a little fun!!!

JB


DFW LF GROUP, TCC GATHERING, Saturday, May 21, 2011

We will be helping host an informal gathering of LF & ULF photographers from the Dallas/Fort Worth area Saturday, May 21, 2011. The DFW LF Group will be meeting at 8am at the Tarrant County College (TCC) North East Campus, 828 Harwood Road, in Hurst.  We will gather at the Visitor Parking and will be photographing in the central campus park area just a short distance from the parking lot (see map). Those interested in traditional, large format photography are welcome to join us. Here is a link with driving directions;

http://www.tccd.edu/Campuses_and_Centers/Northeast_Campus/Directions_NE.html

There are quite a few photo opportunities including flowers, trees, shrubs, architectural, and there is a giant chess board to photograph. Michael Kan will bring a bar stool and some diffusers in case anyone wants to shoot any portraits. We will have an assortment of LF and ULF cameras available for some hands-on time. JB & Susan Harlin will have ULF cameras setup and there will be several other local LF photographers in attendance. Everyone will be available to answer questions. If you are interested, this will be your opportunity to meet and talk with those that work with large cameras and film. We will also bring a few photographs to boot.

We would like to thank Larry Hart, President of the TCC Exposure Photo Club, for arranging for us to meet on the campus. Larry will be joining us along with some of his fellow students.

Following our shoot, we will head over to North Main BBQ for lunch and fellowship.

Thanks to Bob McCarthy for finding us a great spot for some BBQ, and Michael Kan for planning and logistics.

For more continuing information, drop by the Large Format Photography Forum.

JB & Susan


VIEW CAMERA LUBE

It is important that your view camera work and work smoothly without glitches in the field.  Nothing is worse than having some issue when you are out working.  I spend a lot of time maintaining our cameras.  I feel it is better to do this before we go out, than to have problems that require work in the field.  Nothing is worse than wasting time on repairs when you are out.

A high-quality Microcrystalline Wax is one of your best friends when it comes to keeping your view camera clean and working smoothly.  See my previous post titled “Wax On. . . Wax Off” for more information about waxing the camera.

But, waxing the camera is only part of keeping it functioning smoothly.  You need lubrication for the metal parts.  Metal rails, guides, and locking knobs need lubrication to keep them working freely.  Nothing is worse than having a threaded part to seize up in the field.  The best lubrication for metal parts is a dry lubricant.  One that goes on wet but dries leaving a slick lubricant that does not get on your hands and possibly on your lenses or film.   A dry lubricant also does not attract dust and dirt.

One of the best lubricants I have found is a product made for lubricating bicycles.  Pedro’s Ice Wax 2.0 is a natural wax-based dry lube for use on bicycle chains.  It is also an excellent choice for the metal-to-metal parts of the view camera.   It works on brass, steel, and aluminum surfaces equally well.  The manufacturer says it is a Hydrophobic wax coating that repels water and provides protection from wear and contaminants.  It goes on wet and dries leaving a lubricating film that keeps parts moving freely.

Just a drop or two worked into the metal-on-metal surfaces is all you need.  And it lasts for a long time.  It is also good for all threaded locking knobs to keep them free and to prevent them from seizing up.  A little Microcrystalline Wax plus some Ice Wax, and you should be good to go. . . go to the field that is, without any glitches to slow you down.

JB


ONLY A LIGHT-TIGHT BOX

“He tried to impress upon me that, though a camera is nothing but a tool, it can be (therefore it must be) used for a higher purpose than the meaningless transference of already visible information onto a sheet of paper. Because camera could describe a worker’s vision of his world, like a cello or a paintbrush, or granite block, camera held the capacity for art.”

-Fred Picker- Discussing his experience with the Ansel Adams Workshops.
Zone VI Newsletter, Number 39, June, 1984, p. 5

A camera is just a tool. . . a thing. It is only a light-tight box that holds the lens and film. It is no different than a carpenter’s saw, a painter’s brush, a pianist’s piano, or a sculptor’s mallet and chisel. Any of these tools in the hands of the inexperienced will create little more than noise or a mess. Likewise, in the hands of a beginner, the camera is no more than a thing. In the hands of an experienced photographer is becomes a tool for creating art.

If you want to become a photographic artist the first goal is to become an accomplished master of the equipment. But, how do you get there from here? It starts with ambition and drive. Like any skill, you will only learn, and become a master, if you are dedicated. The mechanics of photography are not difficult to learn. It does take time and determination to get there, but it is not an unachievable task. You just have to have the desire and drive to work through the process of learning how best to use the tools.

Think of when you were a kid and you thought that taking piano lessons was a great thing to do, since some of your friends were already enrolled. Then after a while you get the usual threats from your parents to get in there and practice! You get the customary, we bought you that expensive piano and are paying for lessons, so get to work. Truth is, you really didn’t want to learn the piano in the first place. It was just something you thought would be neat. If you really wanted to learn, your parents would have to be lecturing you about spending too much time with the piano and limiting your keyboard time.

It is that drive. . . that obsession with learning that makes for the great artist. You have to eat, sleep and breathe photography to be really successful. Just a casual interest will lead to little more than a few casual photographs. Or, maybe you are just obsessed with the hardware. Maybe you would be better off collecting and trading equipment. There is always that possibility that the light-tight box is your obsession and not the photograph. Only you can make that determination.

That Light-Tight Box is just the camera. . . a tool to be used in the creation of your art. I hope that you learn to use your tools to your best advantage! Invest your time wisely. Learn the tools of your chosen craft well. Do not stumble around in the dark, it belongs inside the camera.

JB


WHAT PAPER DEVELOPER ARE YOU USING THESE DAYS?

So. . . everyone has their preferred brands, methods, techniques and such. I have mine for sure. As Fred Picker said, “if you have been around for twenty years or more and haven’t formed any opinions, what have you been doing?” I miss Fred!

There seems to be a lot of paper developer formulas floating around. My wife and I have tried our share of so-called ‘magic’ formulas. We have been down the Amidol road, and don’t get me wrong, Amidol is a great developer but it is far from magic. Amidol is about the best I have found for Azo. Yes we do print on Azo, in fact, we have a stock of it on hand. I would just like to go on the record as not being a person that subscribes to the idea there are magic bullet formulas. There is what works for you and that can be anything that suits your way of seeing. Anyone that has a one-size-fits-all attitude, usually has something to sell.

We have had our frustrations with Amidol developers. And I am not convinced that it is the best, certainly not the only, developer suitable for Azo or any other paper. In a side-by-side test my wife and I determined that Amidol was our developer of choice several years ago. There is a subtle edge there that is not something you can put into words, but there is a difference we decided worth exploring. But Amidol is expensive and can be frustrating to use at times. Yes, we have tried all of the popular formulas. I have just not been too impressed with the results I have obtained at times. What I was searching for was a cold-tone developer. Not only for Azo, but for the other printing papers we use. At times Amidol was still giving a green cast on Azo. Not bad but annoying and required lengthy toning in selenium to offset. I like a cold, neutral tone for most of what I print and the Amidol formulas just wasn’t consistent enough for me. I was not happy with how things were working. It was time to do some research.

I found a lot of interest on the Internet about a Pyro base paper developer formulated by Donald Miller. Mr. Miller named his developer Pyro Plus Paper Developer (PPPD) and after reading about this formulation I was inspired to give it a try. Believe me it takes some inspiration to get me to try something new, but I was frustrated with Amidol and I needed some good news for a change.

From all of the discussions about PPPD I found one thing was clear; there were numerous variations to the formula. The original published formula called for both Pyrogallol and Pyrocatechol. Now this is where things get a little confusing. I don’t recall where I found the particular variation that I tried, but there was a suggestion from somewhere to replace the Pyrogallol with Citric Acid. Not sure where I found that, but that was the formulation that I first tried.

From what I gathered, adding the Pyrogallol and changing the amount of Potassium Bromide makes a more warm-tone developer. I was not interested in warmer, I wanted a cold, neutral developer. To my surprise the variation I tried worked very well. It more than met my requirements, and so far, has yielded very neutral cold tone results on the Azo we have on hand. No more green tint, just what I wanted! It has also proven to be excellent with all other papers we use. And, for those that are economy minded, Pyrocatechol is much cheaper than Amidol.

PPPD keeps very well in an open tray once mixed, but should be dumped at the end of a printing session. I have never had it to die in the tray from oxidation. It does die from exhaustion, just like most any other developer. I would estimate that after about twenty 8×10 prints per liter, you should start looking to mix some fresh developer.

This particular formula also keeps well as a premixed two-part stock solution. Part ‘A’ is mixed 1:1 with part ‘B’ for use. I found that by mixing one liter of both part ‘A’ and part ‘B’ and storing it in full brown glass bottles it keeps at least six months. At least at this point in my experiments that is as long as I have stored the stock solutions. I keep three to four one liter bottles mixed and on the shelf in the darkroom. When we go to print, you just dump a bottle of part ‘A’ and part ‘B’ into a tray and away you go.

I really like this developer and my wife is using it also. So if I am asked what developer I am using, I say now days it is my variation of Donald Miller’s PPPD. My bottles are marked PPPD-JBH for my personal favorite formula.

Oh. . . almost forgot. . . I guess if you have read this far you are interested in the version of PPPD we are using.  Here is the formula that we have found to work very well with every paper we use, including Azo. Maybe it will work for you. . . maybe not. The only way to find out is to, as Fred Picker would say, “TRY IT!”

Please note that this developer contains chemicals that could be hazardous. Practice safe handling procedures when mixing chemicals. Wear gloves or use tongs when working with PPPD. In fact, it is a good idea to wear gloves when using any print or film developer.

Keep in mind this is a cold-tone developer. If you search the Internet you will find more information on other variations of the PPPD formula. Supposedly adding Pyrogallol and varying the amount of Potassium Bromide makes this a warm-tone developer, but I have not tried it, since I was not interested in warmer print tone.

I would like to personally thank Donald Miller, and all the others involved for laying the groundwork and publishing this formula, and its numerous variations, for Pyro Plus Paper Developer. Anyone wishing to experiment with PPPD, or seeking more information, try an Internet search for Pyro Plus Paper Developer.

Here you will find the original Pyro Plus Paper Developer formulated by Donald Miller;

http://unblinkingeye.com/Articles/PyroPlus/pyroplus.html

JB


MY POINT EXACTLY

In my last post here titled “ORIGINALLY POSTED ON OUR OLD BLOG; Saturday, January 17, 2009; WHERE HAVE ALL THE PHOTOGRAPHY CLUBS GONE?” I tried to make the point that the failure to promote and teach ultimately leads to the loss of knowledge and processes that need to be preserved. In that post I was particularly hard on the photography clubs and their failure to promote and maintain the many facets of the art of photography. Photography clubs have become, for the most part, computer clubs. They ignore the other facets of the craft and even tout the lie that digital is all there is in the entire universe. This to me short changes everyone and leads to a loss of other beautiful and useful photographic processes. It also leads to pure ignorance among those that are interested in entering into the art form.

Below is a review sent to me from a photographer friend of a Nikon F6 camera that someone purchased through Amazon. At first this was funny to me, then I thought it was a joke, and finally the hard and sad truth began to sink in. This represents the sad state of affairs today. Read this review;

“This review is from: Nikon F 6 – SLR camera – 35mm – body only (Electronics)
Camera will not work with CompactFlash or other digital media. You must buy a cartridge of tape, which allows for just 24 shots. No LCD screen with image playback. Very disappointed and returned.”

HERE is the link to the original review on the Amazon web site.

Read some of the comments to this supposed “Review.” At this writing there are eleven pages of comments. Guess I will go find a roll of that tape. I don’t know whether to laugh or cry???

JB


ORIGINALLY POSTED ON OUR OLD BLOG; Saturday, January 17, 2009

NOTEThis post originally appeared on our first BLOG that is no longer active.  I am resurrecting it here because it is something I feel needs to be repeated.  Just another one of my little rants about the state of affairs pertaining to my favorite subject. . . Photography.  To be even more specific. . . Film Photography.   Take my comments with a grain of salt. . . or. . . maybe more like rubbing salt in your eyes????

—————————————————–

WHERE HAVE ALL THE PHOTOGRAPHY CLUBS GONE?

To answer that question, they have turned into Computer Clubs! Why? I really do not know why, but I have an idea.

People in general are consumer driven by what the large manufacturers say and do. Certain large, should I say behemoth, manufacturers have taken the initiative to try and influence the photographic market place. Corporate bean counters are forever trying to enhance the bottom line. These so called Harvard MBA’s have little to no experience in reality, they just look to their book learning and spread sheets for bigger, better, faster. They are paid to find pie-in-the-sky schemes that look good for the bottom line. They know little about the product nor its users. And, they really don’t care about anything beyond the quarterly report to the board and share holders. This mindset has filtered into the film photography industry. They don’t care about their product nor their customers beyond what they can get from either or both. Hence the battle cry “Film Is Dead” has gone out through the photography world because someone thinks that is where they can make the most money. And, people, sadly most people, follow like sheep. Repeating the call and believing it is true.

How many times have I been asked, “where do you get film for that camera?” This gets really old in a hurry, but the reality is, people are just misinformed. Way too much TV, radio, magazine ads, billboards, newspapers, Internet, etc, for anyone’s good. We, as a society, are pounded day and night with endless advertising. And, sadly, we believe it! “We couldn’t say it on TV if is wasn’t true” is something I hear on some infomercial. Remember, advertisers will tell you anything to get your money!

OK, so what does this have to do with the Camera/Computer Club? It seems that they have become one of the sources for the misconception of the Film Is Dead hoax. Go to most any club, bring up film, and you will be instantly told there is no such thing. It is not that they are trying to intentionally mislead, they are just misinformed. They have bought into the hoax, because it is what they have heard somewhere. And what ticks me off is the fact that they continue to spread false information.

My wife and myself in the past were involved with camera clubs. Why? Because it was a place to meet like-minded individuals and share our interests. Several years ago we found that more and more we had little in common with the other members. They were speaking in tongues, discussing materials and equipment we knew nothing about and had no interest in learning. You can say we lost that ‘like mindedness.’ We cease to be interested and are no longer members.

So, why should this bother me? Because misinformation is detrimental to creativity and the art of photography. I really don’t care if you shoot digital. It is simple; Digital Is Its Own Art Form! Acrylic paint did not replace oil for the painter. In this modern age, people still use candles, hand write letters, ride horses, and who knows what else that has evolved into some more up-to-the-minute technology. Why this all-out move to kill film photography and to try and convince anyone interested that digital is the only choice?

What bothers me is the fact that clubs preach from the rafters the falsehood that film is gone. What if someone wanting to express their artistic vision joins a camera club to learn the craft? They are told film is no longer manufactured, not available, don’t bother. Then they spend their time and money working with digital only to learn later that film is still alive and possibly more important, the direction more suitable to their vision. Film is another medium for their expression. They have now wasted valuable time and resources exploring a medium that is not suitable to their creativity.

A good club, at least for me, would foster all forms of photography, from digital, to the most extreme alternative processes. That way those interested in the medium could see what is really available and make the choice as to which process is right for them. The world is not a one-size-fits-all society. Creative people have something to say. They may write, sculpt, paint or photograph. What is important to the beginner is that they see what their options are, so they can make an intelligent choice. No one should be funneled down the wrong path just because the local Computer Club feeds them a line of BS based on a hoax. If you are just starting out in photography, be very careful if you choose to start with a Camera Club! It could just cost you the most valuable commodity you have. . . TIME!!!

And, to those that are in charge of the local camera clubs, pull your head out of the sand and look around. There is an entire world of photographic imaging, from digital to exotic alternative processes where you create your own emulsions. You just have to look for it somewhere beyond the narrow minded Hoax of Film Is Dead. Please, don’t tell the next new person that comes to a meeting that digital is the only game in town!!!

Posted by JB and Susan Harlin at 1:53 PM Saturday, January 17, 2009


THE VIEW OUT MY WINDOW SYNDROME

I have struggled for years to understand the concept of what is visually stimulating. Just exactly what does it take to strike a nerve that leads to the successful completion of an expressive photograph? Specifically, why is it that I cannot easily find something in my immediate environment that I find worthy of photographing? There was a time when I really thought there was something wrong with my perception of my surroundings. Edward Weston said something to the effect that, you should be able to look down at your feet and find something interesting to photograph. Doesn’t always work for me.

The trouble is, I have a difficult time finding anything within my local surroundings that excites me very much. Some of this has to do with the fact that I live on a flat coastal plane at 600 feet above sea level and what I like the most is mountains and snow. I just can’t seem to find barb wire fences to the horizon, hay rolls, or wind mills that interesting.

I used to think this was only a personal mental issue that I alone suffered from, and that I was in some way creatively impaired. I thought that all I needed to do was find some magic somewhere that would allow me to visually connect to what I see every day. There were those times that I was able to find visual stimulation. Such as dense fog, or really interesting clouds, or maybe a rare snow storm. But most of the time I found that I was forcing myself to just get out and that what I created was not something I really cared for. So, why bother?

As I began to associate with other photographers, many living in other areas of the country, what I found was surprising. I met and talked with people that live in some of what I feel are the most visually stimulating places on the earth. To my dismay some of them have no interest whatsoever in even visiting, let alone photographing what I would give near anything to have unlimited access to. I have talked to people that have grown up within a few hours drive of these places and have never visited, let alone ever had even considered to take a look, let alone make a serious photograph of what lay literally in their back yard.

I began to realize that I was not alone when it came to finding inspiration and visual excitement within my immediate environment. I began to think more in terms that this is a normal ‘thing’. . . a ‘syndrome’. . . a ‘phobia’. . . or whatever, that many other suffer from, or in some way deal with, also.

I am a big fan of the late Bill Jay. His writing on photography is classic. I found this excerpt from one of his most popular pieces and it seemed to connect to my thoughts about this perplexing condition;

“. . . in order to photograph with any degree of continuous passion, you must have a fascination for the subject, otherwise you cannot sustain an interest in the act of creation for a long enough period of time in which to make any insightful or original statement about it.” 1

Thank you Bill Jay!

I have now accepted my condition and even dredged up a name for this phenomenon. I call it, “The View Out My Window Syndrome.” There seems to be something about what you have seen every day of your life and how visually exciting that view becomes over your lifetime. At least for some of us, this is some sort of syndrome. The question is, what can you do about it?

I have come to believe that there is little you can do about The View Out My Window Syndrome. . . so you just live with it. Maybe it is more important to accept it and not obsess over something you have little control over. Make it your goal to find and photograph whatever excites you and do not bother with what lay outside your window, especially if it does not excite you!

I started working on this post some time back and have now returned to complete my thoughts. We have had an unusual winter storm here in Texas. We are on the fourth day of cold, ice, and snow. Today we just had another 2-3 inches of new snow. This is the kind of weather we love when we are out in our favorite areas. . . in the mountains or the visually stunning S/W. Yet with all of this nice cold and snow I have little to no interest in dragging a camera out. The back yard is as boring as the back of my hand. I cannot think of any place near by that I would risk driving to that would be visually exciting, even with a gorgeous coating of snow. Maybe if I did get out I could find something, but I really have no inclination to risk being ran over by some idiot driving on ice. When in the mountains or the desert S/W I don’t mind driving 40-50 miles on solid ice to shoot some film. Here, I don’t even want to walk to the mail box. Why? Good question, but this is an example of a bad case of “The View Out My Window Syndrome.”

JB

1 “The Thing Itself; The fundamental principle of photography” First published in Newsletter, Daytona Beach Community College, 1988
http://www.billjayonphotography.com


FILM DIAGONAL

Sometimes it is necessary to know the diagonal dimension of a particular film format. This is especially true when trying to determine if a lens has a large enough image circle in order to adequately cover a certain film format. Modern lens manufacturers publish specifications that will tell you the maximum format the lens is designed for. But, with older lenses this information is sometimes not available. If you can determine the image circle of the lens, then you can determine which film sizes will work with the lens.

For example, say you are contemplating buying a lens and you know the image circle is 325mm. Looking at the table below you will immediately see that 325mm is the exact diagonal of a sheet of 8×10 film. This lens would probably work. But, you would have absolutely no movement available when using the camera. This lens would adequately cover 4×10 and would have generous coverage for 5×7 and 4×5 formats.

Here are a few common film sizes and their diagonal dimension;

If you need to calculate the film diagonal of any format, here is the formula.

A = Film Height
B = Film Width
C = Film Diagonal

Keep in mind that the actual image area is slightly less than the film dimension due to the hold-down guides that keep the film held in place in the holder. This calculated diagonal measurement is plenty close enough to determine adequate image circle of any lens.

Hope you find this information helpful!

JB


SPOTTING MICROSCOPE

If you are like me, you really hate having to spot prints. You especially do not like spotting negatives. I struggled for years trying to come up with a good way to spot prints. The problem is getting a good look at what you are working on, with enough detail to accurately guide that hair-fine spotting brush to just the right spot. I used a loop. . . tried magnifying glasses. . . used

a magnifying viewer for some time, but nothing gave me a really good view of what I was working with.

Somewhere along the way someone suggested using a stereo microscope. What a stroke of genius!

After doing some research it became clear that a high-quality inspection microscope, with magnification in the 8x to 10x range was prefect for spotting both prints and negatives. A good stereo microscope with zoom was exactly what is needed. The ideal setup would have a long boom stand so you can swing the head out over the work area, and for spotting prints you need an illuminator. I was able to find an entire microscope package including a zoom stereo head, eyepieces, long boom stand with heavy base, and illuminator on eBay.

The microscope head that I have has a zoom range of 0.70 to 3.00 x. Using a set of eyepieces that are 10x, I have a zoom range of 7.0 to 30.0 x. This is perfect! Most of the time 7x is fine, but if I have a really tiny pinhole I can zoom in even more. The microscope illuminator is necessary for working with prints, while you will need a light box for working on negatives. This is why you need a good, adjustable, boom with a heavy base.

It takes a little getting used to, but a stereo microscope is the Rolls Royce of spotting magnifiers. Well worth the expense. This type of microscope setup is used in manufacturing quality control to inspect small parts and comes up in the used market frequently. Searching out a good microscope will save you a lot of headaches and make that unpleasant chore of spotting a little more tolerable.

JB


UTAH 2010-2011 TRIP SNAPSHOT ALBUM

Our 2010-2011 Snapshot Album is up and ready for viewing.  We had another great trip and you can find our album HERE.


UTAH 2010/2011

We have returned to warm Texas after another month long adventure photographing in Utah. This year we spent our time equally between Springdale and Moab. We had varying weather ranging from warm and wet to cold and snow. It was mild in Zion and we experienced a flood. They had a year’s worth of rain in eight days. The park was closed for two days and some areas were evacuated. Water everywhere.

We left Springdale early to get ahead of a winter storm that dumped ten inches of snow in Arches NP and eighteen inches in Canyonlands NP after we arrived. Temperatures changed from mild to a low one morning of -9F and warmed most days to a balmy 15F.

We had a great time. We lost a lot of shooting days to weather, but still made the most of it. Saw truly amazing things and hopefully brought back a few keepers. Now we are working on getting our film notes in order so we can start processing film and we are also working on our snapshot album. Hope to have some snapshots up on the web site soon, so watch here for more information.

Hope everyone had a great Christmas and New Year.

JB & Susan


FRAMED

We recently had an interesting conversation with a local gallery curator and found that we unanimously agreed on one thing. Most art and all photography should be displayed in the most simple manner possible. Nothing is more distracting, and annoying, than an obnoxious presentation. Large, gaudy, frames with funky colored mats are just plain ugly. Our approach is to keep the presentation simple. The framing and mat should be completely transparent. It should only exist to isolate and protect the photograph. If you notice the frame and mat before you see the image, it is just not right. The KISS Principle (Keep It Simple Stupid) is the only way to display photographic art.

For us, you will not find any of our prints mounted and matted with anything other than pure white, acid free mat board. If we frame for exhibition, we use narrow black aluminum frames. The only other frame we would consider would be narrow natural finish maple. Our first choice for glazing would be glass, with acrylic as the second choice. That is it. Anything else is just plain gaudy and unnecessary.

So, just in case anyone is interested in the materials we use, here is a list;

• Light Impressions Westminster Bright White Buffered 100% Cotton Rag 4-Ply

• Frame Fit Co. Crestline Satin Black 9/32” Aluminum Frame plus Hardware

• Art Guard Glazing Products Plain Clear 2.5mm glass

• Wire & Cable Specialist SoftStrand Picture Hanging Wire #4

Those are the basic materials you will need. It is a good idea for you to learn to mount, mat, and frame your own photos. You should learn to cut your own mats. A Logan Simplex mat cutter is not excessively expensive and will serve you well for cutting simple window mats. The most expensive piece of equipment you need will be a good dry mount press. The Seal 210M is the workhorse of mount presses. Watch the auction sites and buy used, a Seal mount press will last a lifetime. This equipment is not extremely expensive and will pay for itself quickly. You will save a bundle of money and will have 100% control over the display of your art.

For more information, take a look at these articles; “DRY MOUNTING PHOTOGRAPHS” and “ADJUSTING THE DRY MOUNT PRESS” on our web site.

Remember, when it comes to displaying your art. . . simple. . . consistent. . . non-intrusive. . . is the look you want. If you are going to get framed, be sure to think simple!

JB


GETTING OUT

We are pleased, and honored, to have been invited to join a local, yet small, group of large format photographers this year. We have had numerous outings throughout the year around the area and had a really good time getting out to shoot some film and talk shop with a great group. Thanks to Eugene, Michael, Bob, Glenn and others. We are looking forward to more photographic adventures in the new year!

Our local large format photo group has proven to be a great test bed for new cameras. Moving to a new, lighter KB Canham 8×10 has served to lighten the load on the old back and should allow for even longer excursions into the wilderness. But the really exciting thing is the new ultra-light 11×14 camera and custom backpack designed by Susan. Now there is no excuse not to shoot 11×14 out of sight of the vehicle.

It is always fun to get out and shoot and our little informal group has made several trips into the field this year. Above is a photo of the 11×14 on its first outing. What a great time we all had. Thanks Michael for allowing me to use your cheery face in the photo!

JB


YET ANOTHER CAMERA PROJECT

As much as I try to not talk continually about the gear, it seems that I always end up talking shop anyway. So, here I go again talking about another project. Having built two vertical pano cameras for Susan I promised myself no more camera building. Well, I do not seem to listen to myself all that well. I have this thing about big negatives. I have chosen the 8×10 to be my every day format. But there are times that I envision something just a little larger. In reality, my favorite format is 11×14, but the camera I have been using weighing in at about 24 pounds limits its usability. The idea of a more user friendly 11×14 has been rattling around in my head for some time.
I spent a lot of time looking at various camera designs with particular interest in the lighter, more back friendly, cameras.
The nice thing about building your own, is you can pick and choose the features and design that best suits you. This is exactly what I did, and I ended up with a camera that is a conglomeration of designs.

The end result is what I call the Ultra-Light 11×14. Here are the specs;

FORMAT — 11X14
FILM BACK — Horizontal/Vertical
BELLOWS — Max: 36.0” Min: 5.5”
FRONT SWING — Limited by Bellows
FRONT SHIFT — +/- 2.0”
FRONT RISE — +/- 3.0”
FRONT TILT AXIS — Limited by Bellows
FRONT TILT BASE — Forward: 45º Back: 90º
REAR TILT — Forward: Limited by Bellows Rear: 35º
REAR SWING — +/- 10º
GROUND GLASS — Acrylic
WOOD — Cherry
FRAME — Composite & Aluminum
FOLDED — 18” x 19” x 6”
WEIGHT — 13.5 lbs

The most important thing here is the last item, Weight! Once all of the camera was finalized, Susan had to build a pack to haul everything. Took several weeks, but I now have a complete 11×14 packable camera system. The pack carries the camera, three lenses, accessories, three film holders, and weighs in under 45 pounds!

Now it is time to get out and get back to what is important, making photographs. This, I hope, will be my last camera building project.

JB

P.S. Take a look at my previous post titled, “THE VIEW CAMERA IN THE FIELD” November 25th, for another photo of the Ultra-Light 11×14 with pack on its second outing.


DON’T FORGET TO WRITE SANTA

Don’t forget to send your wish list to Santa. . . You never know???
Have you been naughty or nice?

JB


THE VIEW CAMERA IN THE FIELD

This Is How We Work With A View Camera.

There is always a lot of discussion on how best to carry LF gear in the field. Seems that most people like to carry their camera in a backpack. That is our favorite mode of transportation in the field for sure. We like the backpack idea so much that Susan builds our packs to custom fit our cameras and accessories. All that we have learned about camera packs has been worked out the hard way. We have copied the features of commercial packs that we find useful and modified as required.

It seems that most people plop their pack down on the ground when they get ready to shoot. That is fine, unless you are in mud, water, or knee deep in snow. I have never liked the idea of setting my pack on the ground. And, yes I know, there are those that carry a tarp, but that is way too much trouble for me. I want to find my subject, plop down my tripod and then get to work without having to look for a convenient and safe place to put down the pack. This thinking led to a modification to both the tripod and the pack. Susan added a webbing loop to the top of the pack and I added a hook on the bottom of the tripod crown. This allows us to hang the pack from the tripod, keeping it out of the dirt and making it very accessible.

We both have worked out a system that allows us to carry everything we need and work efficiently in most any situation. The packs we use have a large compartment in the bottom for the camera and a separate top compartment for lenses and accessories. The custom packs also have room for several film holders.

This is how we do it and it has proven to be very efficient. However you choose to work in the field, the most important thing is to have everything you need with you, well protected, and easily within reach.

JB


THE B&W VIEWING FILTER

Susan and I have used a Zone VI B&W viewing filter for years. This nifty little round device not only shows you the relative tonal relationship between different areas of a scene, it also acts as a framing device.

Zone VI 4x5 Viewing Filter

So, what is a B&W viewing filter? In reality it is a Wratten #90 monochromatic filter. The gel version of these filters are available from the usual photographic suppliers. They are a gelatin filter and fragile. Several companies manufacture monochromatic viewing filters. Tiffin has a version for B&W, but we prefer the Zone VI filter. It is rugged, mine is over 15 years old and still going strong. The fragile filter is mounted between glass and encapsulated in a round molded plastic enclosure. The filter comes with a cord so it can hang around your neck ready for use at any time.

So, what does the B&W filter really do? What it does not do is turn a scene to B&W. The filter shows you the approximate tonal relationship between different areas of a scene as recorded by B&W film. It will show you if there are any mergers of tone within a scene. For example, the filter will show you if a building will tonally merge with the sky, thus indicating the use of a filter to darken the sky for separation. It will also give you a good idea of how different colors will look in B&W. I have found that nice little green moss on a tree trunk will merge with the bark and disappear. The viewing filter will show you this with just a glance. Once you get used to using this handy, yet simple little device, you will not want to be without it.

The Zone VI version also serves as a framing device. The 4×5 version has the same proportions as a 4×5 or 8×10 negative. By learning to hold the filter at the correct distance from your eye, you will soon be able to approximate what focal length lens is required on your camera for a specific framing.

One other thing, the filter forces you to close one eye to use. Remember, the camera has only one lens, one view, one perspective. You may be surprised, but try closing one eye while you are looking at a possible photograph. You just may quickly learn that once you remove the 3-D effect of using both eyes, the photo just may not work. Try it!

This is just another tool. It may work for you, maybe not. The only way to really know is to try it. The Zone VI B&W Viewing Filter is no longer manufactured, but you see them used all the time. Check the Internet. This just could become a regular part of your equipment complement.

JB


TRAVELING WITH FILM

I have received several inquiries as to how we handle film when traveling. Our photographic outings typically last anywhere from two weeks to well over a month. We each shoot several different formats and we usually shoot a lot of film. We do not process film on the road since it is not practical to work with LF and ULF film anywhere but in our darkroom. So the question comes up, how do you handle several hundred sheets of exposed film when traveling?

First I have to say we keep meticulous notes on every negative we make. Everything from exposure, to location, to time of day is recorded on a small digital voice recorder. Every sheet of film gets an entry detailing all pertinent information. Search here on the jbhphoto.com BLOG for previous posts about our record keeping in these entries; “KEEPING NOTES” and “PRINTING NOTES & CATALOG.”

We only have room to haul just so many film holders in each format. So it is always necessary to carry fresh film and to reload holders on the road. Depending on how much we shoot on any particular day, we may reload every evening, or we could go several days before having to reload. Obviously we carry fresh film and empty boxes. How much film? The rule of thumb is to carry twice what you think you will shoot in any format. How do you know? Experience is the only answer to that question. If in doubt, throw in another box just in case. All I can say is we have never ran out of film on any trip. We always come home with unexposed film.

When reloading becomes necessary it is important to be able to sort the exposed film into groups that require the same developing time. We have printed sheets for unloading film. When it comes time to reload, we go through our audio notes and record the film holder numbers into columns that denote the development of each sheet of film. Once we have the sheet filled out, it is just a matter of locating the holders and arranging them in piles before unloading.

We do not practice anything very exotic when it comes to film development. We expose with the intention of one of three development times for any particular situation. Each sheet of film is exposed to be processed either Normal, Normal +1 ½, or Normal -1 ½. That is it. . . we need three sets of empty film boxes for each format, each labeled for the appropriate developing time. As we load more film we empty more boxes that are then used to unload more exposed film. We carry labels that we print off before we leave and affix them to the boxes as needed. The labels denote film developing time and that the box contains exposed film.

We also carry a handful of large rubber bands. All boxes, whether exposed or unexposed are held closed with two rubber bands. This is insurance against a box coming open or accidentally opening the wrong box. In our scheme, any box with rubber bands on it contains film. . . Do Not Open!

We carry a large Harrison tent, but I hate using it. So, we also carry spring clips, small nails, a hammer, tape and blackout material to cover windows as needed. We can nearly always find a bathroom or other room that is easily transformed into the temporary darkroom for film handling. We also carry a small folding table which comes in handy at times. Dust is always a problem when loading film. We carry a small field service vacuum, see the BLOG entry titled “DUST. . . A Four Letter Word!” Every holder is vacuumed, inside and out, every time we reload.

When traveling and shooting LF and ULF you have to be creative and prepared. This entire process is much more difficult to explain than it is to put into use. You just need a little forethought and planning. Traveling with film is not that difficult.

JB


WHAT IS IN A NAME?

name [neym] (noun)
1. a word or a combination of words by which a person, place, or thing, a body or class, or any object of thought is designated, called, or known.

What is in a name? Interesting question for sure! There are times that a name has little meaning, other times it can be the key to an empire. Companies spend untold sums of money in the creation of a name for their products. Their chosen names are trademarked and protected by law. Some names are household words and are part of our everyday life. There are times when a name is extremely important.

There is a revolution brewing in the world of photographic art. The digital vs. analog debate is raging on, and at times is near a war rather than a debate. There are people aligned on both sides and most have made their choice. I can say without hesitation that I have made my decision and I plan to stay the course. It matters not what your preference may be as to the photographic medium you choose. The choice is a very personal and serious decision. You need to be comfortable with your selection and dedicated to its use.

The problem is there needs to be a clarification of terms used in photography today. The various forms that photography has taken on in these more modern times has lead to a lot of misunderstanding and confusion. The general public, along with even those in the fine art photography world, have trouble understanding and defining exactly what modern-day photography has become.

There is this grand misnomer that digital is a replacement for film. There was even a wide spread rumor that film was dead. This is nothing but a pure deception. . . little more than a marketing ploy by people in the photo industry that do not have a clue as to what photographic art is about. Do not buy into the farce that film is dead.

But I digress from my original topic. . . now back to the question at hand. What we need is to be more specific about photographic art. Gone are the days that the word photograph was assumed to mean a procedure based on film and the wet process. Photography has branched out into a more complex art form. Digital photography is a new art form, not a replacement. It is a new way of making images. Because of this new medium there is a lot of confusion pertaining to the process. Each medium has its own peculiarities, strengths, and weaknesses. . . each needs a name. We need to be more specific in the description of the imaging process. After much thought, I have defined three areas that encompass photography today.

1. Traditional Photography

This process has numerous subcategories which are all based on an imaging process that uses film, a wet darkroom, and chemical processes from start to finish. Simply, the way photographs were made before the introduction of digital imaging. This also includes the numerous alternative processes that are still practiced today. This is my choice for the creation of all of my photographs, thus for me using film and the 100% wet darkroom process, my finished print on gelatin silver paper, would be identified as a Traditional Silver Gelatin Photograph.

2. Hybrid Photography

This process is new and is comprised of those that mix traditional and digital together. Some choose to shoot film and then use digital means for the finished product. There are also processes that incorporate digital means to produce a negative that is ultimately used for a wet processed product. This is a very popular art form today and it needs its own definition. . . hence, the term Hybrid. For example, if you are a platinum printer that uses digital negatives, your print should be labeled Hybrid Platinum Photograph.

3. Digital Photography

This is pure digital from start to finish. A digital camera is used to capture the image, computers are used for post processing, and a digital printer is used for the finished product. A Digital photograph is 100% digital in its creation from start to finish. If you work in this medium and use an inkjet printer the print should be labeled a Digital Inkjet Photograph.

This is how I choose to define photography in the modern world. There are three distinct categories of imaging and each should be properly defined. It should be obvious as to which art form I practice. From now on when asked, I will say I am a Traditional Photographer and my prints will be labeled Traditional Silver Gelatin Photograph. Just that simple!

This is my choice and has absolutely nothing to do with anything other than it is what I feel correctly reflects the different types of photography. If you have chosen to be a digital photographer and work in that medium, why be ashamed of it? Same if your work is produced by the hybrid method. Why not be proud enough of your chosen medium to accurately define it and not hide behind the general, and now somewhat vague, idiom of Photography? Just keep in mind that none of these three categories are the same and none is a replacement for any of the others. Each is simply its own art form and they all fall under the general category of Photography.

So, what is in a name? What you call something can mean a lot, especially when you are trying to define your craft. What is your choice. . . TRADITIONAL. . . HYBRID. . . DIGITAL. . . or. . . some combination of the above? Doesn’t matter, just define your chosen medium accurately.

JB


THE PYRO-CAT IS OUT OF THE BAG

Back in February 2009 I posted an entry titled “WHO USES PYRO?” and ended it with this statement, “I have about reached a conclusion as to which formula best suits what we do. . . and. . . I may just write about what I found at a later date. . .”

One thing I can say for certain is that for us, and let me be very clear about this, I repeat, FOR US and the way we work, most any staining developer out performs any non-staining developer we have used. It was just a matter of finding the right developer that suited us and one that would allow us to produce prints that have the presence and feel that best suits our vision.

After working with several of the more popular staining film developer formulas we have finally chosen our favorite. There was a lot of research and comparisons, followed up with field testing in order to ascertain what best fit our needs. I defined the main criteria and judged each developer on how well each performed in each area. Here is a short list of the main points:

• the formula had to be published
• we considered how we work
• what we expect from the negative and developer combination
• ease of use
• consistency of the developed film
• stability of the developer formula
• stain color
• general stain and stain density
• the look, feel, and overall print quality
• last, but not least, the cost

I prefer to always be able to mix my own chemicals from scratch. This became my first issue, since I do not want to depend on the availability of the developer from an outside source. I am a strong believer in vertical integration. Also, if I want, I can modify the formula, and I always know who to blame if something goes wrong.

One thing I have learned is that Pyrogallol is cranky. Nearly all of the formulas we tried that were based on Pyrogallol, at one time or another, under certain circumstances, gave inconsistent and sometimes unpredictable results. The problems could have been caused by any number of variables. We tray process all sheet film using the shuffle method. Some of the Pyrogallol formulas showed signs of aerial oxidation in the tray at the end of the developing cycle, while others did not. The biggest problem was that every Pyrogallol formula we tried, performed erratically and at one time or another, produced an occasional unevenly developed negative. One formula was especially sensitive to wash time. The longer you left the film in the washer, the more the general stain increased and the film went from a near neutral color to deep green. Never did understand what caused that. I am sure it was something that I did, but I do not like to have to deal with something that is that sensitive to slight variations of process.

One thing I did learn was that Pyrocatechin is a much more stable and user friendly developing agent. The Pyrocatechin formulas showed little to no aerial oxidation in the tray after a processing run. No matter what I did, the negatives have not shown any uneven development or any other problems. I prefer to have the confidence that even if something is a little different during processing, it will not cause inconsistent results with the finished negative. In other words, I like to have a little wiggle room.

One other quick observation has to do with the general stain color. I know there has been a lot of discussion about the stain color and again this is what we have found to work best for us. Through our experimentation we quickly learned that green negatives do not work well for us. We print on numerous different papers, and use both graded and variable contrast materials. There is no one magic paper! The right paper is the one that works for any particular negative you are printing. We have found, that for us, the more neutral to brown stained negatives work the best. That is just us. . . if you find otherwise, then use what works for you.

With all of that behind us and a notebook full of test data, I can say it is time to stop the experimenting and get on with what is important, creating photographs. We have now chosen our favorite standard film developer. Pyrocat HD by Sandy King has proven to be the best choice for the way we work. What else can I say. It works. . . works consistently. . . and meets all of our expectations.

I would like to thank Sandy King for all of the research and work he has put into this formula. If you are not familiar with Pyro developers and Pyrocat HD, click HERE to learn more.

JB