CROPPING
Those that dictate hard and fast, unwavering, rules for the creation of art usually are the vane, egotistical, self-centered types that are full of their own over-inflated view of their importance and try to tell you that cropping is an unforgivable sin. I say. . . Not True!
No one has the authority, nor the right, to tell you what, nor how, to create your art. Cropping is a personal decision, and can only be justified by you as an individual. If cropping helps any particular photograph, then it is no sin to proceed to crop away.
Cropping is best done in the camera at the time you make the negative, but it is not always possible. There will always be those instances that appropriate framing is just not possible in the field. Never pass up an opportunity just because the perfect image does not exactly fit the film. Keep cropping as an option. Do not dismiss anything that will help. 
During the printing process look carefully at your first work print and determine if the image is strong from corner to corner. Use cropping L’s to mask questionable edges of the image and determine if lopping off some of the image will strengthen it. If you are enlarging you can reset the easel and the print size. If you are contact printing, a rotary trimmer is your best friend. The choice is totally yours. Do not be a slave to others opinions. There are no rules. The decision is so eloquently expressed by Bob Segar: “What to leave in, what to leave out. . .”
If cropping does not improve the photograph, maybe it is a good idea to find another image that will be more expressive. If you do hit a brick wall with a photograph, save your work and put it aside for later. There are few negatives of questionable substance that are worth killing yourself in order to print. You are usually better off to concentrate on those that are not a struggle to print.
It is easier on you and more productive, and less frustrating, to make negatives that are well seen and easy to print. A mastery of craft will make everything work more smoothly, but never let anyone tell you that you should not, can not, crop your photograph. Just don’t go there! Cropping can be your best friend.
JB
ONLY A LIGHT-TIGHT BOX
“He tried to impress upon me that, though a camera is nothing but a tool, it can be (therefore it must be) used for a higher purpose than the meaningless transference of already visible information onto a sheet of paper. Because camera could describe a worker’s vision of his world, like a cello or a paintbrush, or granite block, camera held the capacity for art.”
-Fred Picker- Discussing his experience with the Ansel Adams Workshops.
Zone VI Newsletter, Number 39, June, 1984, p. 5
A camera is just a tool. . . a thing. It is only a light-tight box that holds the lens and film. It is no different than a carpenter’s saw, a painter’s brush, a pianist’s piano, or a sculptor’s mallet and chisel. Any of these tools in the hands of the inexperienced will create little more than noise or a mess. Likewise, in the hands of a beginner, the camera is no more than a thing. In the hands of an experienced photographer is becomes a tool for creating art.
If you want to become a photographic artist the first goal is to become an accomplished master of the equipment. But, how do you get there from here? It starts with ambition and drive. Like any skill, you will only learn, and become a master, if you are dedicated. The mechanics of photography are not difficult to learn. It does take time and determination to get there, but it is not an unachievable task. You just have to have the desire and drive to work through the process of learning how best to use the tools.
Think of when you were a kid and you thought that taking piano lessons was a great thing to do, since some of your friends were already enrolled. Then after a while you get the usual threats from your parents to get in there and practice! You get the customary, we bought you that expensive piano and are paying for lessons, so get to work. Truth is, you really didn’t want to learn the piano in the first place. It was just something you thought would be neat. If you really wanted to learn, your parents would have to be lecturing you about spending too much time with the piano and limiting your keyboard time.
It is that drive. . . that obsession with learning that makes for the great artist. You have to eat, sleep and breathe photography to be really successful. Just a casual interest will lead to little more than a few casual photographs. Or, maybe you are just obsessed with the hardware. Maybe you would be better off collecting and trading equipment. There is always that possibility that the light-tight box is your obsession and not the photograph. Only you can make that determination.
That Light-Tight Box is just the camera. . . a tool to be used in the creation of your art. I hope that you learn to use your tools to your best advantage! Invest your time wisely. Learn the tools of your chosen craft well. Do not stumble around in the dark, it belongs inside the camera.
JB
MY POINT EXACTLY
In my last post here titled “ORIGINALLY POSTED ON OUR OLD BLOG; Saturday, January 17, 2009; WHERE HAVE ALL THE PHOTOGRAPHY CLUBS GONE?” I tried to make the point that the failure to promote and teach ultimately leads to the loss of knowledge and processes that need to be preserved. In that post I was particularly hard on the photography clubs and their failure to promote and maintain the many facets of the art of photography. Photography clubs have become, for the most part, computer clubs. They ignore the other facets of the craft and even tout the lie that digital is all there is in the entire universe. This to me short changes everyone and leads to a loss of other beautiful and useful photographic processes. It also leads to pure ignorance among those that are interested in entering into the art form.
Below is a review sent to me from a photographer friend of a Nikon F6 camera that someone purchased through Amazon. At first this was funny to me, then I thought it was a joke, and finally the hard and sad truth began to sink in. This represents the sad state of affairs today. Read this review;
“This review is from: Nikon F 6 – SLR camera – 35mm – body only (Electronics)
Camera will not work with CompactFlash or other digital media. You must buy a cartridge of tape, which allows for just 24 shots. No LCD screen with image playback. Very disappointed and returned.”
HERE is the link to the original review on the Amazon web site.
Read some of the comments to this supposed “Review.” At this writing there are eleven pages of comments. Guess I will go find a roll of that tape. I don’t know whether to laugh or cry???
JB
ORIGINALLY POSTED ON OUR OLD BLOG; Saturday, January 17, 2009
NOTE: This post originally appeared on our first BLOG that is no longer active. I am resurrecting it here because it is something I feel needs to be repeated. Just another one of my little rants about the state of affairs pertaining to my favorite subject. . . Photography. To be even more specific. . . Film Photography. Take my comments with a grain of salt. . . or. . . maybe more like rubbing salt in your eyes????
—————————————————–
WHERE HAVE ALL THE PHOTOGRAPHY CLUBS GONE?
To answer that question, they have turned into Computer Clubs! Why? I really do not know why, but I have an idea.
People in general are consumer driven by what the large manufacturers say and do. Certain large, should I say behemoth, manufacturers have taken the initiative to try and influence the photographic market place. Corporate bean counters are forever trying to enhance the bottom line. These so called Harvard MBA’s have little to no experience in reality, they just look to their book learning and spread sheets for bigger, better, faster. They are paid to find pie-in-the-sky schemes that look good for the bottom line. They know little about the product nor its users. And, they really don’t care about anything beyond the quarterly report to the board and share holders. This mindset has filtered into the film photography industry. They don’t care about their product nor their customers beyond what they can get from either or both. Hence the battle cry “Film Is Dead” has gone out through the photography world because someone thinks that is where they can make the most money. And, people, sadly most people, follow like sheep. Repeating the call and believing it is true.
How many times have I been asked, “where do you get film for that camera?” This gets really old in a hurry, but the reality is, people are just misinformed. Way too much TV, radio, magazine ads, billboards, newspapers, Internet, etc, for anyone’s good. We, as a society, are pounded day and night with endless advertising. And, sadly, we believe it! “We couldn’t say it on TV if is wasn’t true” is something I hear on some infomercial. Remember, advertisers will tell you anything to get your money!
OK, so what does this have to do with the Camera/Computer Club? It seems that they have become one of the sources for the misconception of the Film Is Dead hoax. Go to most any club, bring up film, and you will be instantly told there is no such thing. It is not that they are trying to intentionally mislead, they are just misinformed. They have bought into the hoax, because it is what they have heard somewhere. And what ticks me off is the fact that they continue to spread false information.
My wife and myself in the past were involved with camera clubs. Why? Because it was a place to meet like-minded individuals and share our interests. Several years ago we found that more and more we had little in common with the other members. They were speaking in tongues, discussing materials and equipment we knew nothing about and had no interest in learning. You can say we lost that ‘like mindedness.’ We cease to be interested and are no longer members.
So, why should this bother me? Because misinformation is detrimental to creativity and the art of photography. I really don’t care if you shoot digital. It is simple; Digital Is Its Own Art Form! Acrylic paint did not replace oil for the painter. In this modern age, people still use candles, hand write letters, ride horses, and who knows what else that has evolved into some more up-to-the-minute technology. Why this all-out move to kill film photography and to try and convince anyone interested that digital is the only choice?
What bothers me is the fact that clubs preach from the rafters the falsehood that film is gone. What if someone wanting to express their artistic vision joins a camera club to learn the craft? They are told film is no longer manufactured, not available, don’t bother. Then they spend their time and money working with digital only to learn later that film is still alive and possibly more important, the direction more suitable to their vision. Film is another medium for their expression. They have now wasted valuable time and resources exploring a medium that is not suitable to their creativity.
A good club, at least for me, would foster all forms of photography, from digital, to the most extreme alternative processes. That way those interested in the medium could see what is really available and make the choice as to which process is right for them. The world is not a one-size-fits-all society. Creative people have something to say. They may write, sculpt, paint or photograph. What is important to the beginner is that they see what their options are, so they can make an intelligent choice. No one should be funneled down the wrong path just because the local Computer Club feeds them a line of BS based on a hoax. If you are just starting out in photography, be very careful if you choose to start with a Camera Club! It could just cost you the most valuable commodity you have. . . TIME!!!
And, to those that are in charge of the local camera clubs, pull your head out of the sand and look around. There is an entire world of photographic imaging, from digital to exotic alternative processes where you create your own emulsions. You just have to look for it somewhere beyond the narrow minded Hoax of Film Is Dead. Please, don’t tell the next new person that comes to a meeting that digital is the only game in town!!!
Posted by JB and Susan Harlin at 1:53 PM Saturday, January 17, 2009
THE VIEW OUT MY WINDOW SYNDROME
I have struggled for years to understand the concept of what is visually stimulating. Just exactly what does it take to strike a nerve that leads to the successful completion of an expressive photograph? Specifically, why is it that I cannot easily find something in my immediate environment that I find worthy of photographing? There was a time when I really thought there was something wrong with my perception of my surroundings. Edward Weston said something to the effect that, you should be able to look down at your feet and find something interesting to photograph. Doesn’t always work for me.
The trouble is, I have a difficult time finding anything within my local surroundings that excites me very much. Some of this has to do with the fact that I live on a flat coastal plane at 600 feet above sea level and what I like the most is mountains and snow. I just can’t seem to find barb wire fences to the horizon, hay rolls, or wind mills that interesting.
I used to think this was only a personal mental issue that I alone suffered from, and that I was in some way creatively impaired. I thought that all I needed to do was find some magic somewhere that would allow me to visually connect to what I see every day. There were those times that I was able to find visual stimulation. Such as dense fog, or really interesting clouds, or maybe a rare snow storm. But most of the time I found that I was forcing myself to just get out and that what I created was not something I really cared for. So, why bother?
As I began to associate with other photographers, many living in other areas of the country, what I found was surprising. I met and talked with people that live in some of what I feel are the most visually stimulating places on the earth. To my dismay some of them have no interest whatsoever in even visiting, let alone photographing what I would give near anything to have unlimited access to. I have talked to people that have grown up within a few hours drive of these places and have never visited, let alone ever had even considered to take a look, let alone make a serious photograph of what lay literally in their back yard.
I began to realize that I was not alone when it came to finding inspiration and visual excitement within my immediate environment. I began to think more in terms that this is a normal ‘thing’. . . a ‘syndrome’. . . a ‘phobia’. . . or whatever, that many other suffer from, or in some way deal with, also.
I am a big fan of the late Bill Jay. His writing on photography is classic. I found this excerpt from one of his most popular pieces and it seemed to connect to my thoughts about this perplexing condition;
“. . . in order to photograph with any degree of continuous passion, you must have a fascination for the subject, otherwise you cannot sustain an interest in the act of creation for a long enough period of time in which to make any insightful or original statement about it.” 1
Thank you Bill Jay!
I have now accepted my condition and even dredged up a name for this phenomenon. I call it, “The View Out My Window Syndrome.” There seems to be something about what you have seen every day of your life and how visually exciting that view becomes over your lifetime. At least for some of us, this is some sort of syndrome. The question is, what can you do about it?
I have come to believe that there is little you can do about The View Out My Window Syndrome. . . so you just live with it. Maybe it is more important to accept it and not obsess over something you have little control over. Make it your goal to find and photograph whatever excites you and do not bother with what lay outside your window, especially if it does not excite you!
I started working on this post some time back and have now returned to complete my thoughts. We have had an unusual winter storm here in Texas. We are on the fourth day of cold, ice, and snow. Today we just had another 2-3 inches of new snow. This is the kind of weather we love when we are out in our favorite areas. . . in the mountains or the visually stunning S/W. Yet with all of this nice cold and snow I have little to no interest in dragging a camera out. The back yard is as boring as the back of my hand. I cannot think of any place near by that I would risk driving to that would be visually exciting, even with a gorgeous coating of snow. Maybe if I did get out I could find something, but I really have no inclination to risk being ran over by some idiot driving on ice. When in the mountains or the desert S/W I don’t mind driving 40-50 miles on solid ice to shoot some film. Here, I don’t even want to walk to the mail box. Why? Good question, but this is an example of a bad case of “The View Out My Window Syndrome.”
JB
1 “The Thing Itself; The fundamental principle of photography” First published in Newsletter, Daytona Beach Community College, 1988
http://www.billjayonphotography.com
ONLY ONE MASTERPIECE?
I really like hearing the story of the origin of anything. For all of my life I have heard the term ‘masterpiece’ and always thought it was a modern term as in definition #1, #2, and #3 below.
masterpiece master·piece (mas′tər pēs′) noun
1. a person’s greatest piece of work, as in an art.
2. anything done with masterly skill: a masterpiece of improvisation.
3. a consummate example of skill or excellence of any kind: The chef’s cake was a masterpiece.
4. a piece made by a person aspiring to the rank of master in a guild or other craft organization as a proof of competence.
Dictionary.com Unabridged
Based on the Random House Dictionary, © Random House, Inc. 2010.
In modern times we use the word masterpiece to refer to a creation that has been given critical praise, one that is considered the greatest work of a person’s career or a work of outstanding creativity, skill or workmanship.
But the fascinating origin is covered in definition #4. Originally, the term masterpiece referred to a piece of work produced by an apprentice or journeyman aspiring to become a master craftsman in the old European guild system. His fitness to qualify for guild membership was judged partially by the Masterpiece, and if he was successful, it was retained by the guild. Great care was therefore taken to produce a fine piece in whatever the craft was, whether confectionery, painting, goldsmithing, knife making, or many other trades. The Royal Academy in London is one institution that has acquired a fine collection of “Diploma Works” as a condition of acceptance.
So the question arises, is anyone in the modern world allowed more than one Masterpiece? Depends, I guess, on your interpretation of the definition. An interesting thought for sure.
JB
FRAMED
We recently had an interesting conversation with a local gallery curator and found that we unanimously agreed on one thing. Most art and all photography should be displayed in the most simple manner possible. Nothing is more distracting, and annoying, than an obnoxious presentation. Large, gaudy, frames with funky colored mats are just plain ugly. Our approach is to keep the presentation simple. The framing and mat should be completely transparent. It should only exist to isolate and protect the photograph. If you notice the frame and mat before you see the image, it is just not right. The KISS Principle (Keep It Simple Stupid) is the only way to display photographic art.
For us, you will not find any of our prints mounted and matted with anything other than pure white, acid free mat board. If we frame for exhibition, we use narrow black aluminum frames. The only other frame we would consider would be narrow natural finish maple. Our first choice for glazing would be glass, with acrylic as the second choice. That is it. Anything else is just plain gaudy and unnecessary.
So, just in case anyone is interested in the materials we use, here is a list;
• Light Impressions Westminster Bright White Buffered 100% Cotton Rag 4-Ply
• Frame Fit Co. Crestline Satin Black 9/32” Aluminum Frame plus Hardware
• Art Guard Glazing Products Plain Clear 2.5mm glass
• Wire & Cable Specialist SoftStrand Picture Hanging Wire #4
Those are the basic materials you will need. It is a good idea for you to learn to mount, mat, and frame your own photos. You should learn to cut your own mats. A Logan Simplex mat cutter is not excessively expensive and will serve you well for cutting simple window mats. The most expensive piece of equipment you need will be a good dry mount press. The Seal 210M is the workhorse of mount presses. Watch the auction sites and buy used, a Seal mount press will last a lifetime. This equipment is not extremely expensive and will pay for itself quickly. You will save a bundle of money and will have 100% control over the display of your art.
For more information, take a look at these articles; “DRY MOUNTING PHOTOGRAPHS” and “ADJUSTING THE DRY MOUNT PRESS” on our web site.
Remember, when it comes to displaying your art. . . simple. . . consistent. . . non-intrusive. . . is the look you want. If you are going to get framed, be sure to think simple!
JB
THANKSGIVING
We hope that everyone had a great Thanksgiving and that you made a few photographs of the festivities.
Thanks to all of our family, friends, and supporters, may this holiday season be a great one. Now it is time to put up the tree, light the house, and finish that Christmas shopping.
JB & Susan
THE B&W VIEWING FILTER
Susan and I have used a Zone VI B&W viewing filter for years. This nifty little round device not only shows you the relative tonal relationship between different areas of a scene, it also acts as a framing device.
Zone VI 4x5 Viewing Filter
So, what is a B&W viewing filter? In reality it is a Wratten #90 monochromatic filter. The gel version of these filters are available from the usual photographic suppliers. They are a gelatin filter and fragile. Several companies manufacture monochromatic viewing filters. Tiffin has a version for B&W, but we prefer the Zone VI filter. It is rugged, mine is over 15 years old and still going strong. The fragile filter is mounted between glass and encapsulated in a round molded plastic enclosure. The filter comes with a cord so it can hang around your neck ready for use at any time.
So, what does the B&W filter really do? What it does not do is turn a scene to B&W. The filter shows you the approximate tonal relationship between different areas of a scene as recorded by B&W film. It will show you if there are any mergers of tone within a scene. For example, the filter will show you if a building will tonally merge with the sky, thus indicating the use of a filter to darken the sky for separation. It will also give you a good idea of how different colors will look in B&W. I have found that nice little green moss on a tree trunk will merge with the bark and disappear. The viewing filter will show you this with just a glance. Once you get used to using this handy, yet simple little device, you will not want to be without it.
The Zone VI version also serves as a framing device. The 4×5 version has the same proportions as a 4×5 or 8×10 negative. By learning to hold the filter at the correct distance from your eye, you will soon be able to approximate what focal length lens is required on your camera for a specific framing.
One other thing, the filter forces you to close one eye to use. Remember, the camera has only one lens, one view, one perspective. You may be surprised, but try closing one eye while you are looking at a possible photograph. You just may quickly learn that once you remove the 3-D effect of using both eyes, the photo just may not work. Try it!
This is just another tool. It may work for you, maybe not. The only way to really know is to try it. The Zone VI B&W Viewing Filter is no longer manufactured, but you see them used all the time. Check the Internet. This just could become a regular part of your equipment complement.
JB
WHAT IS IN A NAME?
name [neym] (noun)
1. a word or a combination of words by which a person, place, or thing, a body or class, or any object of thought is designated, called, or known.
What is in a name? Interesting question for sure! 
There are times that a name has little meaning, other times it can be the key to an empire. Companies spend untold sums of money in the creation of a name for their products. Their chosen names are trademarked and protected by law. Some names are household words and are part of our everyday life. There are times when a name is extremely important.
There is a revolution brewing in the world of photographic art. The digital vs. analog debate is raging on, and at times is near a war rather than a debate. There are people aligned on both sides and most have made their choice. I can say without hesitation that I have made my decision and I plan to stay the course. It matters not what your preference may be as to the photographic medium you choose. The choice is a very personal and serious decision. You need to be comfortable with your selection and dedicated to its use.
The problem is there needs to be a clarification of terms used in photography today. The various forms that photography has taken on in these more modern times has lead to a lot of misunderstanding and confusion. The general public, along with even those in the fine art photography world, have trouble understanding and defining exactly what modern-day photography has become.
There is this grand misnomer that digital is a replacement for film. There was even a wide spread rumor that film was dead. This is nothing but a pure deception. . . little more than a marketing ploy by people in the photo industry that do not have a clue as to what photographic art is about. Do not buy into the farce that film is dead.
But I digress from my original topic. . . now back to the question at hand. 
What we need is to be more specific about photographic art. Gone are the days that the word photograph was assumed to mean a procedure based on film and the wet process. Photography has branched out into a more complex art form. Digital photography is a new art form, not a replacement. It is a new way of making images. Because of this new medium there is a lot of confusion pertaining to the process. Each medium has its own peculiarities, strengths, and weaknesses. . . each needs a name. We need to be more specific in the description of the imaging process. After much thought, I have defined three areas that encompass photography today.
1. Traditional Photography
This process has numerous subcategories which are all based on an imaging process that uses film, a wet darkroom, and chemical processes from start to finish. Simply, the way photographs were made before the introduction of digital imaging. This also includes the numerous alternative processes that are still practiced today. This is my choice for the creation of all of my photographs, thus for me using film and the 100% wet darkroom process, my finished print on gelatin silver paper, would be identified as a Traditional Silver Gelatin Photograph.
2. Hybrid Photography
This process is new and is comprised of those that mix traditional and digital together. Some choose to shoot film and then use digital means for the finished product. There are also processes that incorporate digital means to produce a negative that is ultimately used for a wet processed product. This is a very popular art form today and it needs its own definition. . . hence, the term Hybrid. For example, if you are a platinum printer that uses digital negatives, your print should be labeled Hybrid Platinum Photograph.
3. Digital Photography
This is pure digital from start to finish. A digital camera is used to capture the image, computers are used for post processing, and a digital printer is used for the finished product. A Digital photograph is 100% digital in its creation from start to finish. If you work in this medium and use an inkjet printer the print should be labeled a Digital Inkjet Photograph.
This is how I choose to define photography in the modern world. There are three distinct categories of imaging and each should be properly defined. It should be obvious as to which art form I practice. From now on when asked, I will say I am a Traditional Photographer and my prints will be labeled Traditional Silver Gelatin Photograph. Just that simple!
This is my choice and has absolutely nothing to do with anything other than it is what I feel correctly reflects the different types of photography. If you have chosen to be a digital photographer and work in that medium, why be ashamed of it? Same if your work is produced by the hybrid method. Why not be proud enough of your chosen medium to accurately define it and not hide behind the general, and now somewhat vague, idiom of Photography? Just keep in mind that none of these three categories are the same and none is a replacement for any of the others. Each is simply its own art form and they all fall under the general category of Photography.
So, what is in a name? What you call something can mean a lot, especially when you are trying to define your craft. What is your choice. . . TRADITIONAL. . . HYBRID. . . DIGITAL. . . or. . . some combination of the above? Doesn’t matter, just define your chosen medium accurately.
JB
THE PYRO-CAT IS OUT OF THE BAG
Back in February 2009 I posted an entry titled “WHO USES PYRO?” and ended it with this statement, “I have about reached a conclusion as to which formula best suits what we do. . . and. . . I may just write about what I found at a later date. . .”
One thing I can say for certain is that for us, and let me be very clear about this, I repeat, FOR US and the way we work, most any staining developer out performs any non-staining developer we have used. It was just a matter of finding the right developer that suited us and one that would allow us to produce prints that have the presence and feel that best suits our vision.
After working with several of the more popular staining film developer formulas we have finally chosen our favorite. There was a lot of research and comparisons, followed up with field testing in order to ascertain what best fit our needs. I defined the main criteria and judged each developer on how well each performed in each area. Here is a short list of the main points:
• the formula had to be published
• we considered how we work
• what we expect from the negative and developer combination
• ease of use
• consistency of the developed film
• stability of the developer formula
• stain color
• general stain and stain density
• the look, feel, and overall print quality
• last, but not least, the cost
I prefer to always be able to mix my own chemicals from scratch. This became my first issue, since I do not want to depend on the availability of the developer from an outside source. I am a strong believer in vertical integration. Also, if I want, I can modify the formula, and I always know who to blame if something goes wrong.
One thing I have learned is that Pyrogallol is cranky. Nearly all of the formulas we tried that were based on Pyrogallol, at one time or another, under certain circumstances, gave inconsistent and sometimes unpredictable results. The problems could have been caused by any number of variables. We tray process all sheet film using the shuffle method. Some of the Pyrogallol formulas showed signs of aerial oxidation in the tray at the end of the developing cycle, while others did not. The biggest problem was that every Pyrogallol formula we tried, performed erratically and at one time or another, produced an occasional unevenly developed negative. One formula was especially sensitive to wash time. The longer you left the film in the washer, the more the general stain increased and the film went from a near neutral color to deep green. Never did understand what caused that. I am sure it was something that I did, but I do not like to have to deal with something that is that sensitive to slight variations of process.
One thing I did learn was that Pyrocatechin is a much more stable and user friendly developing agent. The Pyrocatechin formulas showed little to no aerial oxidation in the tray after a processing run. No matter what I did, the negatives have not shown any uneven development or any other problems. I prefer to have the confidence that even if something is a little different during processing, it will not cause inconsistent results with the finished negative. In other words, I like to have a little wiggle room.
One other quick observation has to do with the general stain color. I know there has been a lot of discussion about the stain color and again this is what we have found to work best for us. Through our experimentation we quickly learned that green negatives do not work well for us. We print on numerous different papers, and use both graded and variable contrast materials. There is no one magic paper! The right paper is the one that works for any particular negative you are printing. We have found, that for us, the more neutral to brown stained negatives work the best. That is just us. . . if you find otherwise, then use what works for you.
With all of that behind us and a notebook full of test data, I can say it is time to stop the experimenting and get on with what is important, creating photographs. We have now chosen our favorite standard film developer. Pyrocat HD by Sandy King has proven to be the best choice for the way we work. What else can I say. It works. . . works consistently. . . and meets all of our expectations.
I would like to thank Sandy King for all of the research and work he has put into this formula. If you are not familiar with Pyro developers and Pyrocat HD, click HERE to learn more.
JB
FILM IS NOT DEAD!
Contrary to popular belief boys and girls, FILM IS NOT DEAD! And I have the proof to boot! One question that everyone has is, where do you get film for that camera? Or, even more disturbing, I thought they didn’t make film any more? Then, where do you get film processed? And finally the most frustrating of all, why would you want to mess with film?
Well, I am not going to address all of this, but I am going to shout from the roof tops again, FILM IS NOT DEAD! Something great has just happened and I am jumping up and down with excitement. Keith Canham, owner of KB Canham Cameras has just announced at Photokina this year that he is now partnered with Kodak to coordinate orders for LF and ULF film. Keith will now take orders for any current Kodak film, in any size! Let me say this again. . . any current Kodak film, in any size!
Plus, just to reinforce the idea that film is not dead, Kodak also announced a new color film. Think about this now. . . Kodak is still developing new film emulsions. They are still doing R&D and improving film! Need I say this again. . . FILM IS NOT DEAD! Here is a portion of the announcement;
Kodak Introduces new Film at Photokina
Yes, a new film: Kodak Creates World’s Finest Grain 400 Speed Color Negative Film with New KODAK PROFESSIONAL PORTRA 400
ROCHESTER, N.Y., Sept. 14, 2010 – Eastman Kodak Company today introduced their new KODAK PROFESSIONAL PORTRA 400 Film, featuring the finest grain structure available in a 400 speed color negative film. The new film incorporates KODAK VISION Film Technology, plus Antenna Dye Sensitization in the cyan and magenta emulsion layers to achieve its unbeatable fine grain.
Yes, a new fine grain color negative film from Kodak. . . and. . . you can get it in any size you can dream of! Here is more information from Photokina on the Kodak BLOG.
Also. . . don’t forget, Kodak is not the only game in town. Ilford offers their B&W film in LF and ULF sizes. Plus there is imported sheet film in many sizes from places like Freestyle Photographic Supplies and others.
Think I am excited. . . well, yes I am! A very special Thank You to Keith Canham and Kodak for your support!!!
I just have to shout this one more time; FILM IS NOT DEAD!
JB
Fiddlin’ Around
Years ago I found myself with access to a violin. I love the sound of a violin. There is something about a beautiful, single note when played by an accomplished violinist. There is a richness. . . a richness of sound. . . a deep resonance, with harmonious overtones in just a single note. I thought this can’t be that hard, you just draw the bow across the string and out comes the sound. Not quite for me though. I even resorted to reading a little in the beginner’s book on bow technique. But, no matter how hard I tried, it always sounded like someone dragging a heavy metal chair across a concrete floor. It was immediately apparent that I really did not want to learn the technique that bad. That was the end of my effort with the violin.
So, what does this have to do with photography you ask? Well, maybe nothing. . . maybe a lot. . . depends on your point of view and interest. No
matter what the commercial says, there is no easy, quick way to anything. . . and. . . believe it or not, you can never have it all, and there is no free lunch! Life is about choices. If you spread yourself too thin, you will never achieve anything. If you sort of think you are interested in LF or ULF photography, you are setting yourself up for failure. LF, and especially ULF, is not easy, not foolproof, and is hard work. There are many pitfalls that will frustrate and test your patience. If it can go wrong, it will! You have to really want to work with LF or ULF. You have to be able to find your way through all of the little things that will ruin your every effort. If you are determined, and if you really have the desire, you can, and will master the craft. Persistence and patience will pay off in the long run. But, if you are looking for instant gratification, find another interest.
I would never recommend that anyone jump into LF or ULF photography. It is just not for the faint of heart. . . those that are not dedicated enough to invest in the time it takes to master the process are doomed to failure. Sort of like playing the violin. I am really glad I didn’t buy a violin just to find out I actually didn’t want to learn to play the thing. If you only have a casual interest, you just may be better off letting someone else do the fiddlin’ around.
JB
PRINTING NOTES & CATALOG
In the last entry I talked about making film notes in the field. That is the first step in the process of record keeping. I didn’t mention the last step which is negative storage. Each negative is marked on one edge with a unique number, then inserted into a clear sleeve then into an archival envelope. Each envelope has the negative number written on the upper edge. The envelopes are then placed into archival boxes, which are labeled with the contents. Also, the smaller film is proofed on our standard paper. These proof sheets are punched, and filed in binders. That pretty much sums up the negative end of the process.
The next step is printing, and yes, we keep notes on the printing process. As each print is worked out in the darkroom, we have printed sheets that 
we use to record the process. We make our own print planner sheets using the computer to document every step in the darkroom. Our print planner sheets have spaces to record all pertinent information for the creation of a finished print. It includes the negative number and date, along with the print date, printing paper, developer, enlarger settings and such. The print planner sheet also has a series of boxes to record exposure manipulations. . . burning and dodging. That way if we ever need to go back and reprint, we have a record of exactly how we made the first prints. These sheets are filed in a three ring binder and labeled for future reference if needed.
We also keep a computer data base which contains our catalog of available photographs. This database contains all of the information from the film and printing notes. The master catalog database also contains information on the number of prints available, price, and exhibition information.
I am sure this all sounds extremely complicated, and I have to admit that if you ever get behind on the record keeping, it would be near impossible to ever catch up. The secret is to continually and consistently keep the records up to date. When we are on the road, the first order of business in the evening, after dinner, is to update the day’s notes and log. Once we get home, the next order of business is to get the film notes done. This has to be done in order to sort the film before development. Our catalog database allows us to keep track of what we have in the way of photographs and serves as a place to search for information when needed.
If you continually keep up with your film notes and records you will always have a way to see where you have been and maybe an aid to where you go next. Is it worth it? We would not do it if we thought otherwise!
JB
KEEPING NOTES
I have written quite a bit about LF and ULF photography here on the jbhphoto BLOG since we started back in January of 2009. A lot of it is my rambling about this or that, and sometimes I tend to repeat myself. Oh well, must be old age??? One thing that I do not remember writing about is keeping notes. We are both meticulous about keeping records of our travels and detailed notes on the film we shoot.
We do several things when we go out on an extended trip. One is to make a lot of snapshots. They are an excellent way to keep track of
the places we visit and are used to plan future trips and serve as a visual reminder of the places and things we discover. We also keep a daily diary/travel log of what, when, and where we were on a particular day. I have to admit that Susan is better at the diary than me, but at the end of every day before we drop off to la-la land, we try to type a few paragraphs. We keep this on a laptop computer and entries continue till the trip is over. It is a great resource, along with the snapshots, later when trying to come up with exactly what happened on any particular adventure.
But, the most important notes are those that pertain to the film we shoot. I experimented for some time when I first started shooting sheet film and eventually came up with a record keeping scheme that works. We have both used this method for many years and it has given us detailed records that, when needed, are invaluable.
When I first began seriously trying to keep film notes I started off with a small notebook. For me though, having to fumble with pen and paper was just not working. So I came up with the bright idea of using a small voice recorder. This worked great! I would record one entry for each exposure and later transcribe the information into a notebook. We both used a micro-cassette recorder for years, until mine just flat quit working. It was worn out and had to be retired.
At this point the digital voice recorders were available and they opened up an entirely new way of record keeping. With the digital recorders it is even easier to keep up with the daily notes. We make one entry for each exposure. The digital file is date and time stamped and it is easy to upload them to the laptop computer. This we do every evening along with updating the daily travel log.
Originally we transcribed each film audio entry into a notebook by hand, but starting about three yeas ago we began typing this information into a computerized form. This form has spaces for Negative Number, Film Holder Number, Development, Image Orientation, f Stop, Shutter Speed, Notes, Filter, Lens, GPS and Date and Time.
This is a somewhat complex way of keeping film data, but it has proven to be well worth the effort, especially when you need to recall the what, when, or how of a particular photo that you made years back. I can go to my film notes and tell you most anything about a particular negative, including the weather.
Keeping notes is also a way to track mistakes. If a particular negative did not turn out as expected, you have all of the information that can provide a clue as to what went wrong. I also record information on my audio entries about location, the light, temperature and anything else that might affect the image, or the photographer. Your notes can be a lifeline to help you track problems.
Detailed records of each sheet of film are not hard to keep up with if you are diligent and keep the process current. Next time I will talk a little about keeping notes in the darkroom. . . and. . . yes, we also keep pretty detailed records of the prints we make.
JB
COOL WHITE. . . MAN
Seem things continue to change at an alarming rate. Several years ago, maybe 12-15 to be honest, I bought some supposedly daylight balanced fluorescent lamps for the kitchen fixture. They put out this really annoying, kind of brownish light that I just could not stand. They were eventually banished to the garage where they finally burned out and were discarded. It was back to the old standard Cool White fluorescent lamps and that awful color cast they generate. Fast forward to our current world and I saw some information about a Compact Fluorescent (CFL) lamp that is 5,000k and touted to be Full Spectrum. Wow! Now that is more what I was looking for.
I bought a CFL lamp that is dimmable, 5,000k and Full Spectrum for another project I was working with. I was so impressed with the light that I searched out some four footers for the kitchen fixture. Once installed I was really impressed with the fact that the room no longer had that sick green/blue light I have become so accustom to from the run-of-the-mill Cool White lamp. The kitchen light looked so good compared to the ones in the darkroom, I knew they were next.
I did take the time to look at a few photographs under both lights and the difference is remarkable. It is always difficult for me to judge print color cast under fluorescent light. These new Full Spectrum lamps deliver a much more natural light that I really like. If you haven’t looked into these new generation lamps, you might just get a pleasant surprise.
Little else to say, other than the latest batch of Full Spectrum fluorescent lamps are impressive and I really do not want to go back to Cool White. . . Man!
JB
THE ART IN PHOTOGRAPHY?
I was recently asked to comment and then was drawn into a discussion on the art of photography and the influence of competition. Specifically, how people’s artistic creativity is swayed by making photographs for the purpose of competing against each other for the satisfaction of winning a blue ribbon.
I am very much against being a member of any large club or organization. Why? Because I feel there is too much of a tendency to become trapped in an endless loop of trying to fit into someone else’s idea of what art should be. Creating images for the sole purpose of winning some contest, for me at least, is a recipe for killing creativity, imagination and individuality, thus turning you into just another ho-hum shutter clicker.
Art is a very personal thing. You cannot please everyone, so why even try to please anyone? You need to please yourself first and foremost. Your art is an expression of what you see and feel. It has nothing to do with what anyone else likes or dislikes. So, why torture yourself by trying to entertain someone else’s idea of what your image should contain, or not contain? Especially if the only reward is a sixty cent ribbon!
It is very important to hone and understand the craft of photography. This is the easy part. You have to understand the craft of your chosen medium. This is true of any creative activity, from wood carving to painting. If you do not understand how to use your equipment and you are not able to learn the ins and outs on your own, by all means, take a class, join a club or group. But, once you attain a basic mastery of the craft, get as far away from external artistic influence as you possibly can. Yes, you also need to learn a few artistic basics. You need to study art theory and understand a few fundamental concepts concerning composition and the artistic view. But, you do not need an endless influence molding you into what someone else views as art. Edward Weston said something to the effect that, “composition is only the best way of seeing.” The creation of art has no hard and fast rules. What suits you is the only thing that matters.
Another reason that I steer away from large clubs and organizations is because they tend to be obsessed with equipment. Remember, amateurs talk about equipment. . . artists talk about art. Learn the craft as quickly as possible, then get on using, and improving that craft in order to create your art. Also remember, a poor craftsman always blames his tools. And speaking of tools, keep in mind that a poor craftsman makes poor images no matter how good the equipment. A well rounded craftsman can make admirable, even stunning images with the worst of equipment. You should own the finest hardware you can afford, but never forget, the camera does not make the photo, you do! Get the equipment and craft of photography out of the way as quickly as possible and get on with making your art! The only thing that matters is the finished image.
And speaking of the finished image, personally I could care less if anyone likes any one of my photographs. Any image I make is not created for anyone but me first and foremost. My photography is mine, and mine alone. If you don’t like it, then don’t bother. If you do like it, then why not do all of us a favor and buy it, and hang it on your wall?
JB
TALKING OF PHOTOGRAPHS
I keep harping on the idea that photography is about the photograph and not the equipment. Or, at least, that is the direction I prefer to take when it comes to the discussion of photography. Talking shop about the gear is the easy part. Talking about the photograph, and the makeup of an image is much more difficult.
The reason the hardware is much easier to discuss is because it is a real, tangible, thing. A piece of hardware you can pick up and hold it in your hand. It has a name and a specific function. You can learn to use a piece of equipment. Most everything about it is well defined and it works in a particular way.
What makes up art is something that is only a feeling. You either like what you see, or you don’t. Looking at some images triggers a feeling or memory that touches you deeply, but cannot be expressed with words. What is definitely appealing to one person is completely ignored by another. To express a great piece of art in words mostly detracts from its emotional content. You just can’t explain a great image.
I am much more interested in hearing how a person was attracted to something, which in turn led them to be motivated to make the photo, rather than the f-stop and shutter speed they used. There are those times when you just KNOW it is time to expose film. The question is, how do you know?
This is the hardest part of artistic photography. There are those that have attempted to explain what is pleasing to the eye by lowering themselves to a form of art speak. Stringing big words together does nothing but make a lot of squiggly lines on paper. Talking for the sake of talk and saying nothing, is what politicians base their careers on.
I am interested in understanding the thought process, but some things are just not well suited for words. Sometimes it is best to just look and enjoy. Below are a few interesting quotes from David Vestal.
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“When you must use words, use plain, clear ones that say exactly what you mean. That’s hard. Art jargon is easy but it only impresses fools. It turns intelligent people off and tells them that the jargon-user is a fool.”
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“Pompous wall labels that explain how your work transcends everything usually fool only curators and collectors.”
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“Such instructions don’t work. People will see your work as they are ready to see it and no better, no matter how wonderful you tell them it is.”
BEER & RODINOL
When I first began working with B&W in my own darkroom I only had a 35mm camera. So I shot many rolls of 36 exposure Tri-X. At one time my favorite developer was Rodinol. Not very expensive, easy to use, keeps forever and I liked the negatives. What else could you ask for?
My procedure for film was simple. I would line up my chemical containers in the correct order. Fill them with the proper liquids and adjust the temperature. Then I would head to my closet darkroom to load the film into the developing tank. I used a 16oz tank that held two reels and I usually did two rolls at a time. I loved the Rodinol because it came in a stock syrup and was mixed something like 1:200, if memory serves me correctly. I would measure the stock using two small syringes since it only took a few milliliters to make up the developer. I would lay the syringes, once loaded, next to the container marked developer which contained distilled water. I always have used presoak, so once the film was in the presoak, I would empty the syringes into the developer container and stir up the developer. Not much to it, simple and easy. Usually took me about forty five minutes from start to hanging up film to dry.
Now this one particular Saturday myself and a few friends went out and I shot two rolls of film that day. Later that evening we returned to my place for a few beers and by about 8:00 everyone headed home. I had this bright idea that if I processed the film from the day it would be dry and I could print it Sunday. Nothing to it, just get out the notebook, measure and slosh. . . processed film!
There was nothing very special about this film run, except the slight fog in my head from the beers and maybe a little to much sun. Everything went as usual. Once the film was washed I unrolled the first strip to find it completely clear end to end. The second roll was the same. What the @#$%^*? My first thought was the camera quit working. As I sat there perplexed I looked at my processing line and what do you think I saw? There next to the empty container for the developer lay my two syringes with the stock Rodinol still in them. I had failed to mix the developer. I learned right there that plain distilled water will not develop film. I also immediately enacted a strict rule in the darkroom; NEVER MIX RODINOL AND BEER!
JB
March 24, 2012 | Categories: Commentary, Darkroom, Film, Photography | Tags: Film Photography, Fine Art Photography, JB & Susan Harlin, Rodinol, ULF Photography | Leave A Comment »