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Everyone that has dabbled with their own film and print processing has been forced to build some sort of minimal darkroom. It is amazing to hear all of the darkroom stories from those that have been there and done that. But the truth is, there are many serious photographers, that have created amazing bodies of work with only the most basic darkrooms.

My first darkroom was in a small closet in a small apartment. I bought a garment rack and my clothes hung behind the bedroom door. A working darkroom does not have to look good. . . it just has to work good. You can load film, expose, and process paper in most any area that can be made lightproof. Once loaded into the tank, film can be processed on the bathroom vanity or kitchen counter. Paper, once processed, can be washed wherever you can set up a washer.

When you start out you may move. No telling how many times you may move before you finally settle in one place. An elaborate and expensive darkroom is nice, but if you relocate, you leave most of it behind. If you rent you have to be creative. I have moved numerous times and the more you move, the better you get at setting up some area as a darkroom.

You don’t need running water, it is nice, but not necessary. You can wash prints in the spare bathroom shower, or tub. One time I had a dry sink made from an old door, with sides screwed to it and painted with enamel paint. I later modified this with a drain, but it ran into a five gallon bucket. This was set up in a spare bedroom, with black plastic over the window. I washed prints in a print washer on the floor of the shower.

You can improvise as required when it comes to the setup. Buy a really good enlarger, with a good lens. The rest is up to you and your budget. A few trays, storage bottles, daylight film tank and chemicals and you are ready to get started. The fact is, you do not need an expensive, nor elaborate, darkroom to make seriously significant prints. Learn to make the most of what is available and put your money and effort into making fine prints. Don’t let the lack of a fully equipped darkroom come between you and your creativity. You can build that dream darkroom later.

JB

In the fall of 2002 we made the reluctant decision that we needed a larger darkroom sink. This sparked a month long project of designing a new 3 1/2×10 1/2 foot sink. The new, larger, sink was to be modeled after the current, smaller, sink. The same basic idea was to be employed. The sink height would be the same. The depth would be greater and it would be as long as the room would allow, about 10.5 feet.

Cabinets for storage would be constructed at each end of the sink with slots for trays in between. There would be space in the right hand end for the water chiller and racks for chemical storage at each end. The backsplash would be a copy of the old one, only larger, and would contain the same plumbing, including filters, two mixing faucets and temperature control unit.

Having determined the necessary measurements it was just a matter of gathering the materials and getting to work. It took about three weeks to complete and install the new sink. Construction was my usual battle ship, massive over kill, design, using plenty of nails, screws, lag bolts, caulk and paint.

For those that are interested in seeing what is involved in building a wooden sink, click HERE to visit our snapshot album chronicling that little undertaking. This is not your typical kitchen sink!

Ever wonder exactly how a Cold Light enlarger head works? How can light be Cold? The grid lamp-type enlarger light source definitely generates much less heat when compared to an incandescent light source. The heat of an incandescent lamp is generated by the infrared radiation produced by the heated filament in the lamp. A typical incandescent lamp produces more IR than visible light. In the simplest terms, the Cold Light does not generate that much IR, hence less heat. But what exactly is a Cold Light?

Most Cold Light enlarging heads contain what is known as cold cathode lighting. And, yes there is also what is known as hot cathode lighting. You say you have never heard of such things? Maybe not, but you see them both most every day. Cold cathode lighting is simply neon. That neon OPEN sign at the convenience store is a cold cathode light. The fluorescent light in your hallway is hot cathode lighting. In simplest of forms, they are both gas discharge lamps.

There are a few of the larger Cold Light enlarger heads that use fluorescent lamps, but most Cold Light heads contain cold cathode grid lamps. Without getting into a technical discussion, the usual Cold Light head is nothing but a neon sign. The glass lamp is bent into a grid instead of spelling out some advertising slogan or the word OPEN.

A cold cathode lamp depends on high voltage to operate. Your small Cold Light head will use a voltage around 6KV (6,000) volts. A larger head can use up to 12KV to operate. The high voltage source is current limited in order to keep the lamp from overheating. By adding different rare gasses and phosphor coatings inside the lamp it is possible to create different colors of light.

The dual grid Variable Contrast Cold Light (VCCL) heads, used with variable contrast papers, have two grids. One green grid for printing soft contrast and a blue grid for printing hard contrast. Adjusting the intensity of each lamp, by varying the voltage, allows you to mix different amounts of each light to achieved a continuously variable contrast grade on VC paper.

So, now you know! That Cold Light enlarger head is nothing more than a specially designed neon sign. And, one important thing to remember and this is important! There is very high voltage inside that Cold Light, so unless you know what you are doing, Keep Out!!!

JB